Today is my last day in NZ. It has been an incredible trip. I have really enjoyed myself. I fly out at 7:30 am tomorrow. I will leave for the airport at 4:45am - a very early morning. I have crazy flight that goes first to Brisbane. There I clear customs and take a flight to Sydney. There I change plans and fly to Perth. A pretty roundabout way to get to Perth if you ask me but the price was better than other alternatives. In Perth I will stay the night at the Comfort Hostel and take the bus to Gero the next morning at 8:30am. I arrive in Gero at 2:30pm.
I feel a little like the Aussie guys who kayaked to NZ but didn't arrange a way back and didn't bring shoes. I have arranged a way back but I realise that I don't have sheets for my bed at home because they are in storage. It will be too hot for my sleeping bag. I will try to borrow some from a friend until I arrange to get my stuff from storage.
A very unlucky event happened to me yesterday. I went to get a snack from my food stored in the common kitchen area. My non-fridge food was not there. I realised that it must have fallen off (or been knocked off) the top of the cupboard and into the free food box. There is was promptly scavanged. I had just gone to the store to buy stuff to eat on the plane. (Cheap flight - no food provided). That was really, really bad luck. However, this morning my cold food had milk spilled on it. As I pulled it out to clean it, I saw most of my food (instant hummus, brunch bars, 2 min noodles and instant soup) in someone else's bag in the fridge. I just took it back. I felt kind of bad. However, I do think that it may have been a little obvious that my food was not being given away. What do you think?
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Akaroa to Arthur's Pass
It was sooo hot the day I left Akaroa. I left on the 4:00pm bus and it was a sauna all the way back to Christchurch. It was super hot there too. I was pretty happy to head out to Arthur's Pass the next morning. I think that Haast Pass is certainly prettier than Arthur's Pass from what I saw.
The weather was a bit cloudy and looked like rain so I hit the DOC office in Arthur's Pass. The forecast was fine but it was evident that the weatherman had gotten it wrong. The DOC officer said that I could go up to Avalanche Peak but to take Scott's Track both ways due to the bad weather. Also if it was too windy at the top to skip the last ridgeline as it is very exposed with long drops on each side. The weather was going to deteriorate even more the next day so this was my only opportunity to try and hike one of the best day hikes in NZ.
I headed out and climbed up, up, up. I did eventually make it to the top but there were no real views. I did see quite a few kea. They were the most aggressive that I have seen and I got a few good pictures as well. (Note: I had tried to fix my camera strap with duck tape but at the top realized that the entire strap had gone missing. I did find the strap on the way down. I haven't tried to fix it again yet.)
The rain increased on the way down and I was in constant rain on the way down. The walk down was pretty slippery and definitely unfun. Fortunately, I made it down without any injury.
Since I really had no views, I will have to reserve comment on which day hike is the best in NZ.
Photos are here.
I went back to the backpacker and built a roaring fire. The next day it was pouring rain and my knees were certainly sore so I spent the day reading.
The weather was a bit cloudy and looked like rain so I hit the DOC office in Arthur's Pass. The forecast was fine but it was evident that the weatherman had gotten it wrong. The DOC officer said that I could go up to Avalanche Peak but to take Scott's Track both ways due to the bad weather. Also if it was too windy at the top to skip the last ridgeline as it is very exposed with long drops on each side. The weather was going to deteriorate even more the next day so this was my only opportunity to try and hike one of the best day hikes in NZ.
I headed out and climbed up, up, up. I did eventually make it to the top but there were no real views. I did see quite a few kea. They were the most aggressive that I have seen and I got a few good pictures as well. (Note: I had tried to fix my camera strap with duck tape but at the top realized that the entire strap had gone missing. I did find the strap on the way down. I haven't tried to fix it again yet.)
The rain increased on the way down and I was in constant rain on the way down. The walk down was pretty slippery and definitely unfun. Fortunately, I made it down without any injury.
Since I really had no views, I will have to reserve comment on which day hike is the best in NZ.
Photos are here.
I went back to the backpacker and built a roaring fire. The next day it was pouring rain and my knees were certainly sore so I spent the day reading.
Friday, January 11, 2008
The Banks Peninsula Track
See photos here.
The Track is 35km long in total. The first and fourth days have significant climbs of around 600m each. It explores the Banks Peninsula which is an ancient volcano. Akaroa Harbour is the eroded crater of the volcano. This track is a private track. The nice thing about that was that there was beer and food for sale at most of the "huts". I had a few more equipment difficulties. I have broken both my camera strap (I have not idea how) and my sunglasses (I stepped on them but have duck taped them together)
Night 1
I stayed in a stargazer hut in Onuku. This hut is made of plywood and plexiglass. There is plexiglass over your head so that you can see the stars at night. I loved it. It overlooks the bay and I saw a sweet sunset from it while drinking a beer (which I brought with me for the first night). It was a cloudy night night so no stars unfortunately. I met my fellow walkers. All eleven of the others are traveling together in a group from a university in the US. They are a nice enough bunch.
Day1 Onuku to Flea Bay
The day was a bit overcast to start but that was fine as I had a big climb to start the day. After reaching the summit I walked down to Flea Bay via three waterfalls. At the last one I was really startled by movement in the water. All of a sudden out of the water slithered a big eel. It scared me for a minute. I think it was after the insects flying about in the air. After that I climbed up behind the waterfall which was pretty cool.
I got to the cottage at Flea Bay pretty early. I was walking around checking things out when Shireen (the owner of the property) drove up with a bunch of people for kayaking. I joined the group and we had a good afternoon on the water. A funny thing happened as we were pulling the kayaks out. Shireen found a blue penguin in one of them. When we got out on the water I I saw penguins and seals on the rocks We also went into two caves where we saw seals. One kayak couldn't seem to back paddle or turnaround. It was kind of scary watching them go in the cave. At least they didn't capsize.
When we came back from kayaking, Shireen took us into the garden and showed us a couple of penguin chicks in a nest there. The parents had initially tried to make a nest in Shireen's boots so she kept moving them to a box in the garden. Finally they got the message.
Later that night we went on a penguin tour. Flea Bay has a very big white flippered penguin population. It also also has a few yellow eyed penguins. Shireen and Frances (the property owners) make boxes for the penguins to use as nests. We saw more chicks and some molting adults in boxes on the hill.
Day 2 Flea Bay to Stony Bay
The walk along the coast line was not to taxing but was so beautiful. I saw hector dolphins from the ridge. I also visited two seal colonies on the way to Stony Bay. At the first seal cave there were lots of young seal pups. It was great to see them playing around.
I did an additional walk around the valley at Stony Bay. Part of it was really new and I got into a bit of stinging nettle trying to navigate the track. There was a nice little waterfall on it.
Day 3 Stony Bay to Otanerito Bay
Again a short walk but incredible coastline. I saw blowholes and sea archs. It was a clear but very windy day. The "huts" here were so cute. I stayed in a little one all by myself. The shower house was built around a tree. There was an outdoor bath heated by a wood fire. I would love to visit here again.
Because the day was so short, I went for a hike in the Hinewai Reserve. I attempted to go up to the Stones. Unfortunately, the trail was really overgrown. I was walking in plant life up to my shoulders. The trail was very hard to determine. Just short of the summit I decided to abort. I walked down and then up to a waterfall at Murderer's Gully and then down to Fantail falls. I certainly got some exercise in this little adventure. At Fantail falls I found a jacket and water bottle. As it was a dead end I figured that one of the university kids had left it. It turns out that one of them decided to climb up the side of the falls and was a bit worried when he got back and his stuff wasn't there. He was pretty happy when I turned up with it back at the hut.
Day 4 Otanerito Bay to Akaroa
Last day - from sea level up and over the Purple Peak saddle (509m) and back to Akaroa. I did a side hike up to the top of Stony Bay Peak (806m). There were pretty good views up there. I just couldn't pass it up.
The Track is 35km long in total. The first and fourth days have significant climbs of around 600m each. It explores the Banks Peninsula which is an ancient volcano. Akaroa Harbour is the eroded crater of the volcano. This track is a private track. The nice thing about that was that there was beer and food for sale at most of the "huts". I had a few more equipment difficulties. I have broken both my camera strap (I have not idea how) and my sunglasses (I stepped on them but have duck taped them together)
Night 1
I stayed in a stargazer hut in Onuku. This hut is made of plywood and plexiglass. There is plexiglass over your head so that you can see the stars at night. I loved it. It overlooks the bay and I saw a sweet sunset from it while drinking a beer (which I brought with me for the first night). It was a cloudy night night so no stars unfortunately. I met my fellow walkers. All eleven of the others are traveling together in a group from a university in the US. They are a nice enough bunch.
Day1 Onuku to Flea Bay
The day was a bit overcast to start but that was fine as I had a big climb to start the day. After reaching the summit I walked down to Flea Bay via three waterfalls. At the last one I was really startled by movement in the water. All of a sudden out of the water slithered a big eel. It scared me for a minute. I think it was after the insects flying about in the air. After that I climbed up behind the waterfall which was pretty cool.
I got to the cottage at Flea Bay pretty early. I was walking around checking things out when Shireen (the owner of the property) drove up with a bunch of people for kayaking. I joined the group and we had a good afternoon on the water. A funny thing happened as we were pulling the kayaks out. Shireen found a blue penguin in one of them. When we got out on the water I I saw penguins and seals on the rocks We also went into two caves where we saw seals. One kayak couldn't seem to back paddle or turnaround. It was kind of scary watching them go in the cave. At least they didn't capsize.
When we came back from kayaking, Shireen took us into the garden and showed us a couple of penguin chicks in a nest there. The parents had initially tried to make a nest in Shireen's boots so she kept moving them to a box in the garden. Finally they got the message.
Later that night we went on a penguin tour. Flea Bay has a very big white flippered penguin population. It also also has a few yellow eyed penguins. Shireen and Frances (the property owners) make boxes for the penguins to use as nests. We saw more chicks and some molting adults in boxes on the hill.
Day 2 Flea Bay to Stony Bay
The walk along the coast line was not to taxing but was so beautiful. I saw hector dolphins from the ridge. I also visited two seal colonies on the way to Stony Bay. At the first seal cave there were lots of young seal pups. It was great to see them playing around.
I did an additional walk around the valley at Stony Bay. Part of it was really new and I got into a bit of stinging nettle trying to navigate the track. There was a nice little waterfall on it.
Day 3 Stony Bay to Otanerito Bay
Again a short walk but incredible coastline. I saw blowholes and sea archs. It was a clear but very windy day. The "huts" here were so cute. I stayed in a little one all by myself. The shower house was built around a tree. There was an outdoor bath heated by a wood fire. I would love to visit here again.
Because the day was so short, I went for a hike in the Hinewai Reserve. I attempted to go up to the Stones. Unfortunately, the trail was really overgrown. I was walking in plant life up to my shoulders. The trail was very hard to determine. Just short of the summit I decided to abort. I walked down and then up to a waterfall at Murderer's Gully and then down to Fantail falls. I certainly got some exercise in this little adventure. At Fantail falls I found a jacket and water bottle. As it was a dead end I figured that one of the university kids had left it. It turns out that one of them decided to climb up the side of the falls and was a bit worried when he got back and his stuff wasn't there. He was pretty happy when I turned up with it back at the hut.
Day 4 Otanerito Bay to Akaroa
Last day - from sea level up and over the Purple Peak saddle (509m) and back to Akaroa. I did a side hike up to the top of Stony Bay Peak (806m). There were pretty good views up there. I just couldn't pass it up.
Monday, January 7, 2008
Mt Cook to Akaroa
I spent a couple of days in Christchurch on my way to Akaroa. After spending so much time in smaller places it was kind of a shock to be in a city. I didn't do much just a bit of shopping. I am still looking for the perfect present for my sister for her birthday. I came across a few things that I like and will get one of them when I return to Christchurch.
I took a shuttle out to Akaroa on Sunday. The weather was good so I did a short hike in the surrounding hillsides.
I went to the Cinema Cafe and saw Sweet Land in the evening. It was a very small cinema and you could buy food and drinks there. I had a beer while I watched the movie.
Today I start the Banks Peninsula Track. I get picked up at 5:45PM to be taken to the first night's accomodation. Tomorrow is the first day of walking. I was go for a hike today but it is raining - better today than tomorrow is all I can say. The temperature today is supposed to be a bit warm but a southerly wind is coming in later today which will cool it off for my first day of walking tomorrow.
I have put a few photos here.
I read in the paper today that a dead tramper (hiker) was found in Mt Cook National Park. It makes me glad that I decided to turn back at Sealy Tarns that day and try for Mueller Hut the next day. Despite the fact that my legs, knees and hips were feeling a bit sore after that.
I took a shuttle out to Akaroa on Sunday. The weather was good so I did a short hike in the surrounding hillsides.
I went to the Cinema Cafe and saw Sweet Land in the evening. It was a very small cinema and you could buy food and drinks there. I had a beer while I watched the movie.
Today I start the Banks Peninsula Track. I get picked up at 5:45PM to be taken to the first night's accomodation. Tomorrow is the first day of walking. I was go for a hike today but it is raining - better today than tomorrow is all I can say. The temperature today is supposed to be a bit warm but a southerly wind is coming in later today which will cool it off for my first day of walking tomorrow.
I have put a few photos here.
I read in the paper today that a dead tramper (hiker) was found in Mt Cook National Park. It makes me glad that I decided to turn back at Sealy Tarns that day and try for Mueller Hut the next day. Despite the fact that my legs, knees and hips were feeling a bit sore after that.
Saturday, January 5, 2008
Mueller Hut HIke Take 2 (Jan 4)
After much consideration I decided to try to hike up to Mueller Hut AGAIN if the weather was good despite the fact that it would be a push for me to make my bus out of Mt Cook.
I woke and it was completely clear. I put my bags in storage and headed out to the trailhead. As I neared the trailhead low clouds began to develop in the valley. I began climbing. It was nice to climb in the early morning. It was very peaceful and a bit cooler. The clouds began to increase and I was worried that I would have no views but a guy coming down from the hut said that the views from above were spectacular despite the clouds because the hut is above the clouds.
It was a hard hike up - short and steep (elevation gain over 1000m). On the way up I was treated to a show by a couple of kea. They actually landed right by the trail and then took off and flew above my head.
The trail was very steep (as I discovered yesterday) and past Sealy Tarns it was generally scrambling over boulders walking from pole to pole. I also had to walk up a slope of scree (very nasty) and cross a small snow field (no biggie). After a couple hours of hard hiking I emerged above the clouds with some spectacular views and all the pain faded away [It must be like having a baby - painful but you forget it once you see the beauty at the end of it]. You could hear the glaciers and snow cracking. I saw a few avalanches. It truly was awesome.
I was kind of congratulating myself on completing what I consider a pretty tough hike when I saw that a four year old girl hiked up yesterday and was hiking down today. I guess I am not so tough. (Apparently in the hut talk the evening before they noted that the girl was the youngest to hike up to Mueller Hut. My question would be at what age will she attempt Everest?).
It is a good thing that I am at the end of my trip. My boots have holes in them (they are only about 2 months old). I cut myself on the first hike up to Sealy Tarns on an agave-type plant and bled all over my hiking shorts because I was more concerned about the wind than the pain in my hand. On my way down from Mueller Hut I ripped the same pair of hiking shorts - luckily it was a small rip in the pocket.
Here are a few more photos.
I am now in Christchurch and am off to Akaroa tomorrow at 9am to do the Banks Peninsula Track on Jan 7.
I woke and it was completely clear. I put my bags in storage and headed out to the trailhead. As I neared the trailhead low clouds began to develop in the valley. I began climbing. It was nice to climb in the early morning. It was very peaceful and a bit cooler. The clouds began to increase and I was worried that I would have no views but a guy coming down from the hut said that the views from above were spectacular despite the clouds because the hut is above the clouds.
It was a hard hike up - short and steep (elevation gain over 1000m). On the way up I was treated to a show by a couple of kea. They actually landed right by the trail and then took off and flew above my head.
The trail was very steep (as I discovered yesterday) and past Sealy Tarns it was generally scrambling over boulders walking from pole to pole. I also had to walk up a slope of scree (very nasty) and cross a small snow field (no biggie). After a couple hours of hard hiking I emerged above the clouds with some spectacular views and all the pain faded away [It must be like having a baby - painful but you forget it once you see the beauty at the end of it]. You could hear the glaciers and snow cracking. I saw a few avalanches. It truly was awesome.
I was kind of congratulating myself on completing what I consider a pretty tough hike when I saw that a four year old girl hiked up yesterday and was hiking down today. I guess I am not so tough. (Apparently in the hut talk the evening before they noted that the girl was the youngest to hike up to Mueller Hut. My question would be at what age will she attempt Everest?).
It is a good thing that I am at the end of my trip. My boots have holes in them (they are only about 2 months old). I cut myself on the first hike up to Sealy Tarns on an agave-type plant and bled all over my hiking shorts because I was more concerned about the wind than the pain in my hand. On my way down from Mueller Hut I ripped the same pair of hiking shorts - luckily it was a small rip in the pocket.
Here are a few more photos.
I am now in Christchurch and am off to Akaroa tomorrow at 9am to do the Banks Peninsula Track on Jan 7.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Queenstown to Mt Cook
I was happy to leave Queenstown. It was an overcrowded mess for New Year's Eve. New Year's Day was a beautiful clear day. The bus driver stopped and let us take pictures as we passed the Lake Pukaki Lookout of Mt Cook.
Since I couldn't get into Mt Cook until Jan 2, I spent the night in a town called Tekapo named after the nearby lake - Lake Tekapo. The lake has a beautiful blue cool from the silt of the glacier. I had a big day of laundry and then I walked up to the top of Mt John where there is an observatory. Lake Tekapo apparently has very clear skies.
The backpacker I stayed at was very nice. I ended up sharing a twin room with another girl due to a booking error. That was really nice.
The bus trip to Mt Cook the next day was more like a tour. The driver owns the company (Mt Cook Connections) and he told me all about the area on the way up to Mt Cook. We also stopped for a number of photo opportunities. It was great.
I got to Mt Cook around and headed out to hike to Hooker Lake. It was a clear day and I had some beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
On the way home I stopped at the Mountaineer Bar that had a sign up that said "Happy Hours Daily". I asked what time Happy Hour started. The answer was that there would be no happy hours because it was a public holiday (Jan 2 - a big holiday around the world - SARCASM). Being a smart ass I said "So the sign is actually a lie". That didn't go over very well.
The next day I planned to hike up to Mueller Hut. However, the weather wasn't very good when I got up. The wind was howling and it was raining. The weather forecast said that it would ease during the day so I go a 24 hour wireless account. This stopped working and the YHA that I was staying at couldn't contact anyone. It looked as though it was going to be a waste of money. In the meantime, the weather started looking as though it might improve. I geared up to go out. As I went out it started raining. I retreated and read my book for awhile.
It looked more promising later (12:30) so I went out. The hike I wanted to do takes approx 8 hours. I decided that I would monitor conditions. If they weren't favorable I would turn back. I hiked up to Sealy Tarn. It was a steep rocky hike up the side of the mountain. A cloud hung over the area that I knew that I was hiking to. The wind was so strong at times I worried about being blown off the mountain. I did have good views of Mueller Glacier and the glacier on Mt Sefton.
At Sealy Tarn I had to decide if I would go on to Mueller Hut. It started raining as I was trying to make my decision. I had plenty of energy to go up but I didn't want to come down climbing over slippery rocks in the rain. Larry, Lori and Dustin and I had a conversation on the Kepler Track about bad decisions leading to bad situations. I decided that Muelller Hut would keep. I could try the next day or next year if I come back here with my family. It is a truly spectacular area.
I know that I made the right decision because on the way down it continued to rain. The cloud stayed over the mountain even though other areas of the area were clear. I was almost blown over when I got to the bottom of the hill.
I did go to happy hours on this non-holiday day. It was lucky because they have the same wireless service so I was able to connect there with the same account that I had set up at the YHA so no need to pursue a refund. Yeah!!!!
On the way back to the YHA I saw a family of paradise ducks. The little baby ducks were so CUTE.
I talked to a couple of people at the YHA and they said that the weather at the Tasman Glacier was great. I may head out there in the AM to hike around Blue Lakes and up to Ball Hut.
Check out the photos here.
I can't believe that I am leaving in less than two weeks. SO SAD !!!
I am off to Christchurch next and then on to Akaroa soon after.
Since I couldn't get into Mt Cook until Jan 2, I spent the night in a town called Tekapo named after the nearby lake - Lake Tekapo. The lake has a beautiful blue cool from the silt of the glacier. I had a big day of laundry and then I walked up to the top of Mt John where there is an observatory. Lake Tekapo apparently has very clear skies.
The backpacker I stayed at was very nice. I ended up sharing a twin room with another girl due to a booking error. That was really nice.
The bus trip to Mt Cook the next day was more like a tour. The driver owns the company (Mt Cook Connections) and he told me all about the area on the way up to Mt Cook. We also stopped for a number of photo opportunities. It was great.
I got to Mt Cook around and headed out to hike to Hooker Lake. It was a clear day and I had some beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
On the way home I stopped at the Mountaineer Bar that had a sign up that said "Happy Hours Daily". I asked what time Happy Hour started. The answer was that there would be no happy hours because it was a public holiday (Jan 2 - a big holiday around the world - SARCASM). Being a smart ass I said "So the sign is actually a lie". That didn't go over very well.
The next day I planned to hike up to Mueller Hut. However, the weather wasn't very good when I got up. The wind was howling and it was raining. The weather forecast said that it would ease during the day so I go a 24 hour wireless account. This stopped working and the YHA that I was staying at couldn't contact anyone. It looked as though it was going to be a waste of money. In the meantime, the weather started looking as though it might improve. I geared up to go out. As I went out it started raining. I retreated and read my book for awhile.
It looked more promising later (12:30) so I went out. The hike I wanted to do takes approx 8 hours. I decided that I would monitor conditions. If they weren't favorable I would turn back. I hiked up to Sealy Tarn. It was a steep rocky hike up the side of the mountain. A cloud hung over the area that I knew that I was hiking to. The wind was so strong at times I worried about being blown off the mountain. I did have good views of Mueller Glacier and the glacier on Mt Sefton.
At Sealy Tarn I had to decide if I would go on to Mueller Hut. It started raining as I was trying to make my decision. I had plenty of energy to go up but I didn't want to come down climbing over slippery rocks in the rain. Larry, Lori and Dustin and I had a conversation on the Kepler Track about bad decisions leading to bad situations. I decided that Muelller Hut would keep. I could try the next day or next year if I come back here with my family. It is a truly spectacular area.
I know that I made the right decision because on the way down it continued to rain. The cloud stayed over the mountain even though other areas of the area were clear. I was almost blown over when I got to the bottom of the hill.
I did go to happy hours on this non-holiday day. It was lucky because they have the same wireless service so I was able to connect there with the same account that I had set up at the YHA so no need to pursue a refund. Yeah!!!!
On the way back to the YHA I saw a family of paradise ducks. The little baby ducks were so CUTE.
I talked to a couple of people at the YHA and they said that the weather at the Tasman Glacier was great. I may head out there in the AM to hike around Blue Lakes and up to Ball Hut.
Check out the photos here.
I can't believe that I am leaving in less than two weeks. SO SAD !!!
I am off to Christchurch next and then on to Akaroa soon after.
Monday, December 31, 2007
Next Few Days
I am heading up to Lake Tekapu and Mt Cook from here. They are small places and I am not too sure how much Internet access I will have so don't worry if I don't post for awhile.
New Year's Eve Hike
Disgusted with the crowds and the mentality in Queenstown I went for a hike today. I went over the top of Ben Lomond Saddle. (This is the first part of the hike I did here last time.) Then I went over the saddle and down the backside. I had fantastic views of snow capped mountains. There didn't seem to be anyone else doing this part of the trail which was nice.
The trail descended through boggy station land. At times it was poorly marked and I had to back up because I had gotten off trail. Eventually it followed the Moke and Shotover Rivers to Arthur Point.
One interesting part was walking by the Canyon Swing. I had gone there with Emma when she did it. The trail was on the other side of the river and you could see the immense drop that the participants did before they started swinging. It was quite cool.
The trail ended and I walked down to the main road. There was a pub where I had a beer before returning to Queenstown and the madness.
Here are a few photos of the trail.
Right now Queenstown makes me think of that song "Stupid Girls" by Pink. You have to listen to the words to get what kind of girls she is talking about.
The trail descended through boggy station land. At times it was poorly marked and I had to back up because I had gotten off trail. Eventually it followed the Moke and Shotover Rivers to Arthur Point.
One interesting part was walking by the Canyon Swing. I had gone there with Emma when she did it. The trail was on the other side of the river and you could see the immense drop that the participants did before they started swinging. It was quite cool.
The trail ended and I walked down to the main road. There was a pub where I had a beer before returning to Queenstown and the madness.
Here are a few photos of the trail.
Right now Queenstown makes me think of that song "Stupid Girls" by Pink. You have to listen to the words to get what kind of girls she is talking about.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Fate
Three beers with Lori, Dustin and Larry after so much hiking must have gone to my head. I forgot to pay my bar tab at the Moose. I realised about two hours later. I rushed back and paid it (and got my credit card). On the way back to the backpacker the sky was amazing. I have put a few photos of it. Here is a photo of Lori, Dustin, Larry and I having a drink and the sunset photos. Unfortunately the photo of us in the bar is a bit blurry. I guess that is what happens when you ask someone drinking at a bar to take a picture of you.
Hail, Snow, Sleet and Finally a bit of Sun (The Kepler Track)
Check out the photos here (Sorry there are 34 photos)
Day 1 Te Anau to Luxmore Hut- 18km 750m Elevation Gain
I left for the Kepler Track on Boxing Day - Dec 26 the day after Christmas. On Christmas the weather had been rainy with the snow level descending to 1300m. Boxing Day was cloudy with the look of impending showers.
I left early and walked around the lake to Brod Bay which took me about 2 hours from the backpacker I was staying at. There I started the real climb up to Luxmore Hut. I walked up and up for around three hours. At one point a few trees had fallen over the track and I had to squeeze between them. I had to take off my pack to fit through. I managed to get mud all over my self in this endeavour. I continued walking upwards. When I cleared the tree line I had fantastic views of Lake Te Anau and the surrounding mountains.
Just as I caught sight of the hut I felt hail. This must have been an omen for the trip although it quickly abated. The hut was spectacularly poised with views of the nearby mountains and Lake Te Anau. I signed in and had a hot lunch of soup. The hut ranger told me that it had snowed the previous day at the hut (Christmas). As the weather was a bit iffy and was slated to rain the next day I decided to head up to the summit of Mt Luxmore. I wore my full rain gear and long underwear in case of rain/sleet/snow. I have to say I was a bit of a fashion statement (NOT).
It was cloudy on the way up and I was only catching intermittent views of the surrounding mountains. It took me a little over an hour to climb to the peak. Unfortunately most of the views were obscured by clouds. However, I was treated to a bit of snow. I waited a bit to see if it cleared up but no such luck.
I headed down and was treated to a hail storm on the way down. Back at the hut Larry, Lori and Dustin (friends from the Milford Track) had arrived. They had a bit of lunch and then Lori and Larry headed up to the summit. I listed to my iPod in my bunk thinking that they would be in for a bit of a wet trip. In fact, it did sleet on them and then let up right as they reached the summit and they were treated to 360 degree views. Boy were they lucky!
Down at the hut Dustin started a coal fire in the stove to heat up the hut. It was super cold in the hut especially in the bunkroom and the toilet where the stove did not heat. I shared my instant hummus with Lori and Dustin for dinner. (Dustin gave me a bunch of Cliff Bars which are a treat because you can't get them here).
After dinner Dustin, Lori and I headed off to the Luxmore Cave to explore. When we got there it was pretty wet and slippery. We had also heard tales of having to crawl because it was not very high. After Lori bit it, we turned back deciding an injury now was not worth it. Back at the hut a beautiful sunset was a happening so I was glad we got back to see it.
The ranger warned of poor conditions the next day that would deteriorate through out the day so we planned to leave early.
Day 2 Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut- 14.6km 750m Elevation Gain 1000m Descent
I woke up to a beautiful rainbow and then Larry made us a fantastic breakfast of pancakes, peaches and syrup. It was a great beginning to the day. I headed off as soon as possible to try to beat the bad weather wearing my rain coat, rain pants and long underwear.
It was raining on me from the beginning and there was little visibility of the surrounding mountains. On a positive note I could easily see the trail which went up, up up. I was quite warm going up. Once I reached to ridge line the rain turned to sleet. It was blowing pretty hard. I descended for a bit and began to feel chilled. I began to question my decision to leave early (before the weather report). At the first emergency shelter I put on another layer and put a pair of socks on my hands. There were two small groups ahead of me and they went on so I decided to as well. The rain was steady but not heavy yet and (heavy rain was the forecast for later in the day).
Along the ridge I caught glimpses of the hanging glacial valleys, Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri. Mostly I saw sleet and cloud. At times the sleet was blowing horizontally. I had to brace myself to ensure that I wasn't blown off the ridge. Now I may sound a bit negative here but it was quite an experience. I had had so much good weather that I knew that this would happen eventually with the amount of rain this area experiences. For the first three hours or so I was okay with it. I was not very uncomfortable despite the fact that my pack grew heavier and heavier as it became water logged.
The turning point came when my Gortex boots no longer kept the water out and I was sloshing water at each step. At that point (after about hiking three hours on the ridge) I was ready for it to be over. Unfortunately I had another two hours or so to go. It was what can be classified as a character building experience. No really - I was in pretty good shape. I wasn't cold except for my face and in general I was pretty dry.
The descent to the hut was quite long. I must have been rushing a bit because I wiped out in a big way. I kind of felt like a turtle flipped over because I was lying on my back on top of my backpack. It was heavy and I had a hard time righting myself. To compound the situation one of my arms was stuck in the air held up by the hiking pole. I am lucky that I didn't dislocate my shoulder. Eventually I kind of levered myself up. (An alternative was to unclip my backpack). It was kind of funny despite the fact that I was wet and muddy.
Eventually I made it to the hut. The weather on the notice board said that the snow level had dropped to 1300m (we were above that at thimes while hiking) and that gale force winds were expected. Three people made it there before me. I wasn't there for more than 15 minutes when we were yelled at by the hut ranger for using a door that was sign posted as closed. They started a fire but were afraid to put much wood on it because of various notices put up about conserving wood. We did an assessment of what was wet and dry. In general, for me my outwear was wet and my shoes and socks and my backpack (not what was in it). I placed these by the anemic fire. Later, the ranger yelled at people for putting outerwear and boots by the fire. I wasn't there and my boots where thrown into the hall for me to find. My socks and boot insoles remained so wet that I could continuously wring water out of them. I would wring them out then check them later and would still be able to wring more water out.
Throughout the afternoon the rain increased to a heavy level. As people came in it became evident that many people were in bad shape. There were throughly soaked and their belongings including their sleeping bags were throughly soaked. They piled their gear on top of everyone else's so no ones dried. Lori realized this and she and her dad hung a line up between their bunks. I put a few things on their line. I sneaked my boots upstairs. I put my insoles on the stove flipping them like pancakes trying to dry them.
Day 3 Iris Burn Hut to Moturau Hut- 16.2 km slight descent
I woke up to a cloudy but rain-free day. I left early as usual. My first stop was a side trip to the Iris Burn waterfall. From there the walk was mainly downhill with a few ups. I walked through a glacial valley and along the Iris Burn river. Along the valley were a few waterfalls with the run off from the previous day.
At one point I came to a sign that said "Track closed" - nothing else. I thought "What do I do now?". The track was obviously closed because a bunch of trees had fallen over it. I noticed a few small orange arrows pointing up a very steep hill. I climbed up the hill clinging to wet and slippery tree roots for hand and foot holds. Eventually it became clear that this was a detour. I wish I had gotten a picture of this but once I was on my way up I didn't want to try to go down again.
Eventually the valley ended at Lake Manapouri and the track lead to the Moturau Hut on Lake Manapouri. It was warm and sunny. Most of the people on the Track went past this and walked out to Rainbow Reach (less than two hours more) where they could take a shuttle back to Te Anau. I stayed at the Hut. It gave me a chance to warm up and dry my remaining wet clothing (socks and insoles). The only downside were those pesky insects - (you know it SANDFLIES). I lathered up with DEET and made myself at home on a wooden platform where I listed to my iPod for the afternoon.
Later that evening Lori, Larry, Dustin and I walked out to Shallow Hut and explored the area around there. It was just before sunset and the lake looked quite beautiful.
Day 4 Moturau Hut to Te Anau- 19 km - generally flat
I got up early and hoofed it back to Te Anau so I could return my hiking pole to the rental agency, possibly do laundry (this didn't happen) and see the movie the Shadowlands (about Fiordland).
My first stop along the trail was at the Wetland viewing platform. There I saw a carnivorous plant called the Sundew. It is the friend of all because it eats insects such as sandflies. Yeah !!!
The rest of the walk was along the Waiau River and very pretty in spots. It was mostly flat or downhill and I was surprised how quickly I made it back to the Te Anau Control Gates which signify the beginning/end of the track.
From there I walked on the Lakeside trail back to Te Anau stopping at the wildlife park to see the Takahe - an endangered flightless bird.
Back in Te Anau I showered. Wow - that felt good. Then I ran my other errands but did not get the laundry done.
I met up with Lori, Larry and Dustin and saw the Shadowlands movie. It shows the fiords as filmed from a helicopter. I bought a copy and sent it home to Dad. Later we also met up for happy hours and dinner at the Moose. Maybe we will all hike together again in the future when I return to the US.
Lessons Learned
Day 1 Te Anau to Luxmore Hut- 18km 750m Elevation Gain
I left for the Kepler Track on Boxing Day - Dec 26 the day after Christmas. On Christmas the weather had been rainy with the snow level descending to 1300m. Boxing Day was cloudy with the look of impending showers.
I left early and walked around the lake to Brod Bay which took me about 2 hours from the backpacker I was staying at. There I started the real climb up to Luxmore Hut. I walked up and up for around three hours. At one point a few trees had fallen over the track and I had to squeeze between them. I had to take off my pack to fit through. I managed to get mud all over my self in this endeavour. I continued walking upwards. When I cleared the tree line I had fantastic views of Lake Te Anau and the surrounding mountains.
Just as I caught sight of the hut I felt hail. This must have been an omen for the trip although it quickly abated. The hut was spectacularly poised with views of the nearby mountains and Lake Te Anau. I signed in and had a hot lunch of soup. The hut ranger told me that it had snowed the previous day at the hut (Christmas). As the weather was a bit iffy and was slated to rain the next day I decided to head up to the summit of Mt Luxmore. I wore my full rain gear and long underwear in case of rain/sleet/snow. I have to say I was a bit of a fashion statement (NOT).
It was cloudy on the way up and I was only catching intermittent views of the surrounding mountains. It took me a little over an hour to climb to the peak. Unfortunately most of the views were obscured by clouds. However, I was treated to a bit of snow. I waited a bit to see if it cleared up but no such luck.
I headed down and was treated to a hail storm on the way down. Back at the hut Larry, Lori and Dustin (friends from the Milford Track) had arrived. They had a bit of lunch and then Lori and Larry headed up to the summit. I listed to my iPod in my bunk thinking that they would be in for a bit of a wet trip. In fact, it did sleet on them and then let up right as they reached the summit and they were treated to 360 degree views. Boy were they lucky!
Down at the hut Dustin started a coal fire in the stove to heat up the hut. It was super cold in the hut especially in the bunkroom and the toilet where the stove did not heat. I shared my instant hummus with Lori and Dustin for dinner. (Dustin gave me a bunch of Cliff Bars which are a treat because you can't get them here).
After dinner Dustin, Lori and I headed off to the Luxmore Cave to explore. When we got there it was pretty wet and slippery. We had also heard tales of having to crawl because it was not very high. After Lori bit it, we turned back deciding an injury now was not worth it. Back at the hut a beautiful sunset was a happening so I was glad we got back to see it.
The ranger warned of poor conditions the next day that would deteriorate through out the day so we planned to leave early.
Day 2 Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut- 14.6km 750m Elevation Gain 1000m Descent
I woke up to a beautiful rainbow and then Larry made us a fantastic breakfast of pancakes, peaches and syrup. It was a great beginning to the day. I headed off as soon as possible to try to beat the bad weather wearing my rain coat, rain pants and long underwear.
It was raining on me from the beginning and there was little visibility of the surrounding mountains. On a positive note I could easily see the trail which went up, up up. I was quite warm going up. Once I reached to ridge line the rain turned to sleet. It was blowing pretty hard. I descended for a bit and began to feel chilled. I began to question my decision to leave early (before the weather report). At the first emergency shelter I put on another layer and put a pair of socks on my hands. There were two small groups ahead of me and they went on so I decided to as well. The rain was steady but not heavy yet and (heavy rain was the forecast for later in the day).
Along the ridge I caught glimpses of the hanging glacial valleys, Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri. Mostly I saw sleet and cloud. At times the sleet was blowing horizontally. I had to brace myself to ensure that I wasn't blown off the ridge. Now I may sound a bit negative here but it was quite an experience. I had had so much good weather that I knew that this would happen eventually with the amount of rain this area experiences. For the first three hours or so I was okay with it. I was not very uncomfortable despite the fact that my pack grew heavier and heavier as it became water logged.
The turning point came when my Gortex boots no longer kept the water out and I was sloshing water at each step. At that point (after about hiking three hours on the ridge) I was ready for it to be over. Unfortunately I had another two hours or so to go. It was what can be classified as a character building experience. No really - I was in pretty good shape. I wasn't cold except for my face and in general I was pretty dry.
The descent to the hut was quite long. I must have been rushing a bit because I wiped out in a big way. I kind of felt like a turtle flipped over because I was lying on my back on top of my backpack. It was heavy and I had a hard time righting myself. To compound the situation one of my arms was stuck in the air held up by the hiking pole. I am lucky that I didn't dislocate my shoulder. Eventually I kind of levered myself up. (An alternative was to unclip my backpack). It was kind of funny despite the fact that I was wet and muddy.
Eventually I made it to the hut. The weather on the notice board said that the snow level had dropped to 1300m (we were above that at thimes while hiking) and that gale force winds were expected. Three people made it there before me. I wasn't there for more than 15 minutes when we were yelled at by the hut ranger for using a door that was sign posted as closed. They started a fire but were afraid to put much wood on it because of various notices put up about conserving wood. We did an assessment of what was wet and dry. In general, for me my outwear was wet and my shoes and socks and my backpack (not what was in it). I placed these by the anemic fire. Later, the ranger yelled at people for putting outerwear and boots by the fire. I wasn't there and my boots where thrown into the hall for me to find. My socks and boot insoles remained so wet that I could continuously wring water out of them. I would wring them out then check them later and would still be able to wring more water out.
Throughout the afternoon the rain increased to a heavy level. As people came in it became evident that many people were in bad shape. There were throughly soaked and their belongings including their sleeping bags were throughly soaked. They piled their gear on top of everyone else's so no ones dried. Lori realized this and she and her dad hung a line up between their bunks. I put a few things on their line. I sneaked my boots upstairs. I put my insoles on the stove flipping them like pancakes trying to dry them.
Day 3 Iris Burn Hut to Moturau Hut- 16.2 km slight descent
I woke up to a cloudy but rain-free day. I left early as usual. My first stop was a side trip to the Iris Burn waterfall. From there the walk was mainly downhill with a few ups. I walked through a glacial valley and along the Iris Burn river. Along the valley were a few waterfalls with the run off from the previous day.
At one point I came to a sign that said "Track closed" - nothing else. I thought "What do I do now?". The track was obviously closed because a bunch of trees had fallen over it. I noticed a few small orange arrows pointing up a very steep hill. I climbed up the hill clinging to wet and slippery tree roots for hand and foot holds. Eventually it became clear that this was a detour. I wish I had gotten a picture of this but once I was on my way up I didn't want to try to go down again.
Eventually the valley ended at Lake Manapouri and the track lead to the Moturau Hut on Lake Manapouri. It was warm and sunny. Most of the people on the Track went past this and walked out to Rainbow Reach (less than two hours more) where they could take a shuttle back to Te Anau. I stayed at the Hut. It gave me a chance to warm up and dry my remaining wet clothing (socks and insoles). The only downside were those pesky insects - (you know it SANDFLIES). I lathered up with DEET and made myself at home on a wooden platform where I listed to my iPod for the afternoon.
Later that evening Lori, Larry, Dustin and I walked out to Shallow Hut and explored the area around there. It was just before sunset and the lake looked quite beautiful.
Day 4 Moturau Hut to Te Anau- 19 km - generally flat
I got up early and hoofed it back to Te Anau so I could return my hiking pole to the rental agency, possibly do laundry (this didn't happen) and see the movie the Shadowlands (about Fiordland).
My first stop along the trail was at the Wetland viewing platform. There I saw a carnivorous plant called the Sundew. It is the friend of all because it eats insects such as sandflies. Yeah !!!
The rest of the walk was along the Waiau River and very pretty in spots. It was mostly flat or downhill and I was surprised how quickly I made it back to the Te Anau Control Gates which signify the beginning/end of the track.
From there I walked on the Lakeside trail back to Te Anau stopping at the wildlife park to see the Takahe - an endangered flightless bird.
Back in Te Anau I showered. Wow - that felt good. Then I ran my other errands but did not get the laundry done.
I met up with Lori, Larry and Dustin and saw the Shadowlands movie. It shows the fiords as filmed from a helicopter. I bought a copy and sent it home to Dad. Later we also met up for happy hours and dinner at the Moose. Maybe we will all hike together again in the future when I return to the US.
Lessons Learned
- Gortex boots hold up only so long
- Backpacks soak up water in rain making them heavier. Backpack covers could be a useful addition to prevent this.
- Walking in the forest causes the forest floor to get into your boots (somehow). This causes foot irritation. Thinking about investing in gaiters.
- Extra socks are awesome - glad I had them
- Tevas are useful when you can't wear your boots in the huts - glad I had them
- Food trades on the trail are so fun
Monday, December 24, 2007
Merry Christmas Mom
The Milford Track ended at Milford Sound where Dad had asked me to put some of Mom's ashes. Despite the threat of sandflies I did put some of Mom's ashes in Milford Sound. Right after I put her ashes in the Sound a little duck called a scaup (I think) swam by. I would like to think that Mom will have some good bird watching from there. Photos of the spot can be seen here.
My Milford Track Story
I have to say that I have now replaced my most memorable and best experience in NZ. Previously it was the Tongariro Crossing. It is now the Milford Track. It was so incredible.
A selection of my photos are here.
Day 1
The journey started with a bus ride from the Department of Conservation (DOC) office to Te Anau Downs where we caught a boat across Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf. It was a pretty crossing. On board the boat where independent walkers, such as myself, and guided walkers who pay lots of money but do not need to carry food or a sleeping bag.
Once across the lake I made sure that I got ahead of most of the walkers because I didn't want to be walking with a large group. I did see a few people (who I later hung out with) but generally I had the trail to myself. I walked along the Clinton River up to Clinton Hut. It was a very, very short day - only 2 miles or so with little elevation gain. Once at the hut the sandflies made an appearance. Later I read this description of them.
"Just as the soul rises to great ecstasies comtemplating the beatuies of nature you are suddenly brought back to sublunary things by the bite of darned pernicious, pernickety, perverse, sanguinary, persistent, persecuting, poisonous, insidious, insignificant, voracious, devils imp of a sandfly" D. A. Jolly 1895.
The Maori believed that their gods had put them there to ensure that no one stayed in one place for very long and destroyed the beauty of the fiordland.
Well let me tell you - it was hard to stay in one place for long.
I met a couple (Emma and Jamie) from Australia and we had a bite to eat together. Then I headed down to the rock pools in the nearby Clinton River. I warmed up on a large rock. Emma and Jaime came down later and took a very cool swim in the river. I guess it would be a bonus to clean yourself after the walk but I was not game. I chose the cold water sink to clean up.
Later we cooked up dinner on the gas burners in the cooking hut. It took me quite a while to get the hang of lighting it but in the end I got my water boiling. I ate a freeze dried meal which was edible but by no means a culinary delight. Later someone left the plastic on his pot while trying to use it to cook and started a small plastic fire. It was put out quickly but smelled very bad.
Despite the fact that it was an easy day, one guy was already talking about pulling the pin and heading back. He was there with his three sons and daughter. In the end his elder son carried both his and his father's packs and the dad went on.
That evening I met a few more of the walkers along the track including a group of Americans from Kansas/ Texas. It turns out that they are also walking the Kepler on the 26th as I am. That is a funny coincidence.
Day 2 - 16.5 km (not including hike up and back to Pass)
I woke up early on Day 2. I continued my bad luck with the gas burners. I somehow managed to choose the burner that the guy melted the plastic on the night before to boil water for breakfast. Eventually my water boiled and I ate oatmeal for breakfast.
I hadn't meant to leave so early but I was being eaten alive by mosquitos so I got my gear together in record time and got out of there. Day 2 consisted of walking through a the Clinton River valley. I was surrounded by huge mountain sides carved out by glaciers and striking waterfalls. I could see Mackinnon Pass that we would climb over along the track. It was a mostly flat walk with some elevation gain at the end. Despite the number of people on the Track (40 independent walkers and I don't know how many guided walkers), I only saw one person the entire day. It was fantastic.
I got to the Mintaro Hut around lunch time. Since the day was beautiful and the weather for the next day is always uncertain. We were advised to climb the pass to ensure we got the views. I left to climb the Pass after a lunch of noodles and instant veggie soup carrying only my camera and a bottle of water.
The climb up was quite beautiful with wild flowers. I walked through a falling rock zone (later I heard that a group of walkers heard a very large boulder fall - BOOM, BOOM, BOOM). On the way up I had views of Lake Minataro and Mt Elliot. The climb was a little over 2 miles up and the elevation gain was 560 meters. The footing was rocky and uneven. I kind of dreaded climbing it again the next day with a pack on.
Close to the top I stopped a memorial and was lucky enough to be given an air show by two kea (alpine parrots). It was great. The were flying above a huge drop off called the 12 second drop because it takes 12 seconds to fall from there to the bottom. I could see the guided walker accommodation for the next day at the very bottom.
I continued up to Mackinnon Pass (1154 m) and got some stunning views of nearby Mt Balloon and Mt Hart.
In my room I met a pair of Germans there with their Dad and Mom. They had had a long and tiring day because their dad is legally blind. I had no idea how they were going to make it over the Pass.
That night I was pretty tired and hit the sack as soon as possible but had time to win a quick game of spoons before I went to bed.. All gear had to be stored inside because the kea will steal anything they can get their beaks on. Boots could be hung on pegs outside off the ground. I kept mine inside just to be safe.
Day 3 - 14 km (not including hike up and back to Sutherland Falls)
The keas woke us up at 5am with their squawking. I guess they wanted us out and about so they could scavange stuff from us. I hit the trail early again.
It was cloudy in the morning which made the climb up to Mackinnon Pass cool. I was glad that went up the day before for photos. I kind of liked seeing it a different way. It made climbing twice a different experience each time. The hike up was no where near as bad as I thought it would be. I think I did it in about the same amount of time as the day before but I didn't stop to take any photos on the way up on Day 3. On Day 2 I took photos of the scenery and the wild flowers.
The descent was beautiful with many water falls but it was uneven and rocky. I wondered how the blind German was going to do it.
I did a side trip to Sutherland falls. It is the highest waterfall in NZ. It was quite beautiful. On the way back at Quinton Hut I met up with a bunch of the people that I hung out with in the evening. It was kind of cool to hang out and chat with them on the trail because generally my days had been pretty solitary. After a chat and a rest I continued down the Track and they went up to Sutherland Falls.
The range of when people made it to the Hut was huge. The blind guy didn't get in until after 8:00PM. His son said the day was "hell" but his dad fell only twice. He said that he had no idea of what Milford Track was like. His dad and mom had watched a video that showed people walking on a flat and easy track by a river. One woman had hurt her knee and didn't know if she could continue.
At the nightly ranger talk the ranger informed us that the weather report had changed. Heavy rain was now predicted for the night. Since there is a chance of flooding none of us could leave in the morning until we checked in with him. If the Track flooded we had a number of options. We might wait to leave until the water level dropped. We might spend another night at that hut (good that I had emergency food - some people had eaten theirs). We might be helicoptered over the flooded part of the Track. In addition we might be walking in some water up to our calves. Well that kind of through us into a spin but what is an outdoor adventure without a bit of adventure.
Day 4 - 18 km
Well it didn't rain at ALL in the night so we were good to go. I was up early again and so was everyone else. The slow ones had to get an early start to ensure they would catch the boat at the end of the Track.
It was a day filled with spectacular waterfalls. The color of the water flowing through them was simply amazing. At Mackay waterfalls there was a rock that had been eroded and then flipped over. It is called Bell Rock. Myself and another walker crawled in underneath and stood up. Apparently you can fit 12 Westerners in there to seek shelter during a storm (I think it would be pretty tight) or 22 Japanese.
The end of the Track is called Sandfly Point (guess why!). There was a shelter for us to wait for the boat to take us to Milford. There is a large sign with many pairs of boots that are in such bad shape they could not make it one more step - holes in soles, soles pealing off, etc.
I had super weather on this trip - only a little rain on the last day. I hope that we have as good of weather on the Kepler but I don't know if one person can be that lucky.
A selection of my photos are here.
Day 1
The journey started with a bus ride from the Department of Conservation (DOC) office to Te Anau Downs where we caught a boat across Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf. It was a pretty crossing. On board the boat where independent walkers, such as myself, and guided walkers who pay lots of money but do not need to carry food or a sleeping bag.
Once across the lake I made sure that I got ahead of most of the walkers because I didn't want to be walking with a large group. I did see a few people (who I later hung out with) but generally I had the trail to myself. I walked along the Clinton River up to Clinton Hut. It was a very, very short day - only 2 miles or so with little elevation gain. Once at the hut the sandflies made an appearance. Later I read this description of them.
"Just as the soul rises to great ecstasies comtemplating the beatuies of nature you are suddenly brought back to sublunary things by the bite of darned pernicious, pernickety, perverse, sanguinary, persistent, persecuting, poisonous, insidious, insignificant, voracious, devils imp of a sandfly" D. A. Jolly 1895.
The Maori believed that their gods had put them there to ensure that no one stayed in one place for very long and destroyed the beauty of the fiordland.
Well let me tell you - it was hard to stay in one place for long.
I met a couple (Emma and Jamie) from Australia and we had a bite to eat together. Then I headed down to the rock pools in the nearby Clinton River. I warmed up on a large rock. Emma and Jaime came down later and took a very cool swim in the river. I guess it would be a bonus to clean yourself after the walk but I was not game. I chose the cold water sink to clean up.
Later we cooked up dinner on the gas burners in the cooking hut. It took me quite a while to get the hang of lighting it but in the end I got my water boiling. I ate a freeze dried meal which was edible but by no means a culinary delight. Later someone left the plastic on his pot while trying to use it to cook and started a small plastic fire. It was put out quickly but smelled very bad.
Despite the fact that it was an easy day, one guy was already talking about pulling the pin and heading back. He was there with his three sons and daughter. In the end his elder son carried both his and his father's packs and the dad went on.
That evening I met a few more of the walkers along the track including a group of Americans from Kansas/ Texas. It turns out that they are also walking the Kepler on the 26th as I am. That is a funny coincidence.
Day 2 - 16.5 km (not including hike up and back to Pass)
I woke up early on Day 2. I continued my bad luck with the gas burners. I somehow managed to choose the burner that the guy melted the plastic on the night before to boil water for breakfast. Eventually my water boiled and I ate oatmeal for breakfast.
I hadn't meant to leave so early but I was being eaten alive by mosquitos so I got my gear together in record time and got out of there. Day 2 consisted of walking through a the Clinton River valley. I was surrounded by huge mountain sides carved out by glaciers and striking waterfalls. I could see Mackinnon Pass that we would climb over along the track. It was a mostly flat walk with some elevation gain at the end. Despite the number of people on the Track (40 independent walkers and I don't know how many guided walkers), I only saw one person the entire day. It was fantastic.
I got to the Mintaro Hut around lunch time. Since the day was beautiful and the weather for the next day is always uncertain. We were advised to climb the pass to ensure we got the views. I left to climb the Pass after a lunch of noodles and instant veggie soup carrying only my camera and a bottle of water.
The climb up was quite beautiful with wild flowers. I walked through a falling rock zone (later I heard that a group of walkers heard a very large boulder fall - BOOM, BOOM, BOOM). On the way up I had views of Lake Minataro and Mt Elliot. The climb was a little over 2 miles up and the elevation gain was 560 meters. The footing was rocky and uneven. I kind of dreaded climbing it again the next day with a pack on.
Close to the top I stopped a memorial and was lucky enough to be given an air show by two kea (alpine parrots). It was great. The were flying above a huge drop off called the 12 second drop because it takes 12 seconds to fall from there to the bottom. I could see the guided walker accommodation for the next day at the very bottom.
I continued up to Mackinnon Pass (1154 m) and got some stunning views of nearby Mt Balloon and Mt Hart.
In my room I met a pair of Germans there with their Dad and Mom. They had had a long and tiring day because their dad is legally blind. I had no idea how they were going to make it over the Pass.
That night I was pretty tired and hit the sack as soon as possible but had time to win a quick game of spoons before I went to bed.. All gear had to be stored inside because the kea will steal anything they can get their beaks on. Boots could be hung on pegs outside off the ground. I kept mine inside just to be safe.
Day 3 - 14 km (not including hike up and back to Sutherland Falls)
The keas woke us up at 5am with their squawking. I guess they wanted us out and about so they could scavange stuff from us. I hit the trail early again.
It was cloudy in the morning which made the climb up to Mackinnon Pass cool. I was glad that went up the day before for photos. I kind of liked seeing it a different way. It made climbing twice a different experience each time. The hike up was no where near as bad as I thought it would be. I think I did it in about the same amount of time as the day before but I didn't stop to take any photos on the way up on Day 3. On Day 2 I took photos of the scenery and the wild flowers.
The descent was beautiful with many water falls but it was uneven and rocky. I wondered how the blind German was going to do it.
I did a side trip to Sutherland falls. It is the highest waterfall in NZ. It was quite beautiful. On the way back at Quinton Hut I met up with a bunch of the people that I hung out with in the evening. It was kind of cool to hang out and chat with them on the trail because generally my days had been pretty solitary. After a chat and a rest I continued down the Track and they went up to Sutherland Falls.
The range of when people made it to the Hut was huge. The blind guy didn't get in until after 8:00PM. His son said the day was "hell" but his dad fell only twice. He said that he had no idea of what Milford Track was like. His dad and mom had watched a video that showed people walking on a flat and easy track by a river. One woman had hurt her knee and didn't know if she could continue.
At the nightly ranger talk the ranger informed us that the weather report had changed. Heavy rain was now predicted for the night. Since there is a chance of flooding none of us could leave in the morning until we checked in with him. If the Track flooded we had a number of options. We might wait to leave until the water level dropped. We might spend another night at that hut (good that I had emergency food - some people had eaten theirs). We might be helicoptered over the flooded part of the Track. In addition we might be walking in some water up to our calves. Well that kind of through us into a spin but what is an outdoor adventure without a bit of adventure.
Day 4 - 18 km
Well it didn't rain at ALL in the night so we were good to go. I was up early again and so was everyone else. The slow ones had to get an early start to ensure they would catch the boat at the end of the Track.
It was a day filled with spectacular waterfalls. The color of the water flowing through them was simply amazing. At Mackay waterfalls there was a rock that had been eroded and then flipped over. It is called Bell Rock. Myself and another walker crawled in underneath and stood up. Apparently you can fit 12 Westerners in there to seek shelter during a storm (I think it would be pretty tight) or 22 Japanese.
The end of the Track is called Sandfly Point (guess why!). There was a shelter for us to wait for the boat to take us to Milford. There is a large sign with many pairs of boots that are in such bad shape they could not make it one more step - holes in soles, soles pealing off, etc.
I had super weather on this trip - only a little rain on the last day. I hope that we have as good of weather on the Kepler but I don't know if one person can be that lucky.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Mom
Mom and Dad and I were supposed to go to New Zealand and the trip was put off a number of times. Dad asked me to scatter some of Mom's ashes in Milford Sound. I will do that but I think that we would have gone to Doubtful Sound as well so I scattered some of her ashes in Doubtful Sound in the early morning stillness. I know that she would have loved New Zealand because of all the birds here. I took a couple photos of the area where I did this.
Doubtful Sound Tour
The journey to Doubtful Sound is itself quite beautiful. You travel across lake Manapouri and up Wilmont Pass. I happened to get an awesome day - blue skies and good temperatures. The rainfall in Lake Manapouri is 3 meters per year and in Doubtful Sound it is 5 meters per year so a clear day like we had was really rare.
The tour was an overnight tour with an option of kayaking or going out on the tender craft. I chose the kayak and kayaked along the massive granite walls and under waterfalls. It was really great.
Close to the entrance of the Tasman Sea we saw a rare Fiordland Crested Penguin on an island. Then a few of his friends swimming in the water. We were so lucky because it is the end of the chick raising season and most of the penguins have gone to sea. (No photo of this sorry - I would have needed a better zoom for you to be able to pick it out.) We were even luckier later during dinner when we came across what seemed like the entire Bottlenose Dolphin population having fun in the fiord. They were jumping into the air all around the boat. (I did get a couple of photos of them).
During the evening slide show I met some people from Burlington, VT and turns out we have a mutual friend. It is such a small world.
On day two there was almost no wind and the ride back was soo pretty.
Check out the photos here.
I head out to do the Milford Track in the AM and will not be in touch for several days. I will be back Dec 23 and should have internet access then.
The tour was an overnight tour with an option of kayaking or going out on the tender craft. I chose the kayak and kayaked along the massive granite walls and under waterfalls. It was really great.
Close to the entrance of the Tasman Sea we saw a rare Fiordland Crested Penguin on an island. Then a few of his friends swimming in the water. We were so lucky because it is the end of the chick raising season and most of the penguins have gone to sea. (No photo of this sorry - I would have needed a better zoom for you to be able to pick it out.) We were even luckier later during dinner when we came across what seemed like the entire Bottlenose Dolphin population having fun in the fiord. They were jumping into the air all around the boat. (I did get a couple of photos of them).
During the evening slide show I met some people from Burlington, VT and turns out we have a mutual friend. It is such a small world.
On day two there was almost no wind and the ride back was soo pretty.
Check out the photos here.
I head out to do the Milford Track in the AM and will not be in touch for several days. I will be back Dec 23 and should have internet access then.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Firming up the rest of my trip
I have had a few booking problems but everything is good now. My revised schedule is as follows:
Dec 18 Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise
Dec 19 Te Anau
Dec 20-22 Milford Track
Dec 23 Return to Te Anau from Milford Track
Dec 24-Dec 25 Recover from Milford Track
Dec 26-Dec 28 Kepler Track
Dec 29 Return to Te Anau from Kepler Track
Dec 30 and Dec 31 Queenstown
Jan 1 Tekapu Lake ?? (not yet booked)
Jan 2 - 3 Mt Cook
Jan 4 Mueller Hut ?? (dependent on weather and Kris conditions)
Jan 5-7 Open
Jan 8-11 Banks Peninsula ?? (not yet booked)
Jan 12-15 Open
Dec 18 Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise
Dec 19 Te Anau
Dec 20-22 Milford Track
Dec 23 Return to Te Anau from Milford Track
Dec 24-Dec 25 Recover from Milford Track
Dec 26-Dec 28 Kepler Track
Dec 29 Return to Te Anau from Kepler Track
Dec 30 and Dec 31 Queenstown
Jan 1 Tekapu Lake ?? (not yet booked)
Jan 2 - 3 Mt Cook
Jan 4 Mueller Hut ?? (dependent on weather and Kris conditions)
Jan 5-7 Open
Jan 8-11 Banks Peninsula ?? (not yet booked)
Jan 12-15 Open
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Crazy Weather
I did the big hike yesterday because the weather forecast today was kind of hot - in the 80s. I woke up to blue skies - the first I have seen in awhile. Then it poured rain.
I spent the morning buying a few things that I need for the Milford and Te Anau. I seem to keep losing my soap. I also bought a pot to boil water in. It is kind of a necessity if I want hot food and drink on the trail.
I did an easy walk in the afternoon - the Frankton Walkway. It was good because it rained on my twice (light to moderate) so my rain coat got a workout.
On the way back I stopped at a toilet and I thought that I had seen all the automatic things in a toilet - water, soap, paper towels. This one had a toilet paper dispenser. I took a photo of it so that you could also enjoy it.
Check it and a couple of other photos here.
I am off to Te Anau tomorrow.
I spent the morning buying a few things that I need for the Milford and Te Anau. I seem to keep losing my soap. I also bought a pot to boil water in. It is kind of a necessity if I want hot food and drink on the trail.
I did an easy walk in the afternoon - the Frankton Walkway. It was good because it rained on my twice (light to moderate) so my rain coat got a workout.
On the way back I stopped at a toilet and I thought that I had seen all the automatic things in a toilet - water, soap, paper towels. This one had a toilet paper dispenser. I took a photo of it so that you could also enjoy it.
Check it and a couple of other photos here.
I am off to Te Anau tomorrow.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Queenstown - Ben Lomond Hike
Feeling energetic I set off on a hike this morning. I decided to hike up to the Ben Lomond saddle or summit depending on how I felt when I got to the saddle.
The hike was uphill all the way but had great views of Lake Wakatipu which surrounds Queenstown. I had a snack on the way up in a bit of tree cover with paragliders circling over my head. It was pretty amazing. I have to say of all the adrenaline activities there are here that would be one that I could possibly consider because I think that you would have such great views for an extended period of time. All of the rest seem to be over far to quickly.
I hiked up farther and had lunch on a rock close to the saddle overlooking the Lake. It was decision time. Do I go for the summit or head back down? I still had energy but the trail up looked pretty steep. I decided to go for it and eventually made it to the top. In fact I did pass a few people on the way but a few also passed me. The views from the top were spectacular.
I cheated on the way down and took the Gondola the last section. They don't check tickets on the downward voyage so I did it for FREE which I always like.
The hike was 10 kms but I probably took off 2 or so when I took the Gondola down. Queenstown's elevation is 310m. The elevation at the summit is 1747m. I think you can do the math here to see that it was no walk in the park.
You can check out some of the photos here.
I had a great gelato after the hike. YUMMY!
The hike was uphill all the way but had great views of Lake Wakatipu which surrounds Queenstown. I had a snack on the way up in a bit of tree cover with paragliders circling over my head. It was pretty amazing. I have to say of all the adrenaline activities there are here that would be one that I could possibly consider because I think that you would have such great views for an extended period of time. All of the rest seem to be over far to quickly.
I hiked up farther and had lunch on a rock close to the saddle overlooking the Lake. It was decision time. Do I go for the summit or head back down? I still had energy but the trail up looked pretty steep. I decided to go for it and eventually made it to the top. In fact I did pass a few people on the way but a few also passed me. The views from the top were spectacular.
I cheated on the way down and took the Gondola the last section. They don't check tickets on the downward voyage so I did it for FREE which I always like.
The hike was 10 kms but I probably took off 2 or so when I took the Gondola down. Queenstown's elevation is 310m. The elevation at the summit is 1747m. I think you can do the math here to see that it was no walk in the park.
You can check out some of the photos here.
I had a great gelato after the hike. YUMMY!
Return to Queenstown
I took the bus back to Queenstown without problem. I have decided that I like Atomic Shuttles the best of the the bus companies that I have been using. Too bad they don't go to Te Anau. I will have to use a different service to get there.
I met up with Emma and watched her do the Canyon Swing, which is jumping off a platform and then swinging over a canyon. It was fun to watch her and the others jump.
When we returned to Queenstown we at dinner at Fergburger. I had a falafel burger with a chili sauce. It was quite good. We went out for a couple of drinks and bumped into another mutual friend Matilda and a couple of other girls. We listened to a few bands and had a few drinks [and tried to get an ice cream but it was closed at 11:30 - go figure] before calling it a night. Emma is heading up to Christchurch and then back to the North Island before heading out to South Africa so we said goodbye. Matilda is heading down to Te Anau which is the direction that I am headed so we might meet up for a hike there and/ or a beer.
Today I am going to finalize my travel plans for the next week or so. I am worried that the holiday season may make bookings tighter. Then I am going to hike up to the Ben Lomond Saddle and maybe peak if I feel really ambitious. I think that I will stay in Queenstown today and tomorrow and then head down to Te Anau.
I met up with Emma and watched her do the Canyon Swing, which is jumping off a platform and then swinging over a canyon. It was fun to watch her and the others jump.
When we returned to Queenstown we at dinner at Fergburger. I had a falafel burger with a chili sauce. It was quite good. We went out for a couple of drinks and bumped into another mutual friend Matilda and a couple of other girls. We listened to a few bands and had a few drinks [and tried to get an ice cream but it was closed at 11:30 - go figure] before calling it a night. Emma is heading up to Christchurch and then back to the North Island before heading out to South Africa so we said goodbye. Matilda is heading down to Te Anau which is the direction that I am headed so we might meet up for a hike there and/ or a beer.
Today I am going to finalize my travel plans for the next week or so. I am worried that the holiday season may make bookings tighter. Then I am going to hike up to the Ben Lomond Saddle and maybe peak if I feel really ambitious. I think that I will stay in Queenstown today and tomorrow and then head down to Te Anau.
Dunedin
I arrived in Dunedin at 7pm and made my way to Penny's Backpacker. Shortly after arriving I got a text from Emma to meet her and a friend for dinner. We had a nice meal at Etruscos and then headed out to the Otago Peninsula to see the Blue Penguins. It was pouring rain. The road was soooo curvy with an immediate drop off to the water and no guard rail. We were rushing because it was getting dark. It was a bit hair raising but we made it. It was dark when we got to the penguin area but we saw on before we even got out of the car. They were everywhere and they were loud. We viewed them as best as possible in the dark and pouring rain. No pictures were possible because the flash hurts their eyes.
The next day I decided to move backpackers to a place called Manor House and to stay another day to do the Back to Nature Tour. Manor House is a really great place to stay - awesome staff, good beds, good shower. It is an old home converted to a backpacker.
The Back to Nature Tour is also a great tour. It was very reasonably priced and lasted from 2:30pm to 9:30pm. Our tour guide was Chris from Scotland (but born in NZ). Dunedin was settled by the Scottish. We went to Lanarch Castle and viewed native flora. Then on to a tidal flat to view birdlife - including the variable oystercatcher [my friend from Abel Tasman], the Royal Spoonbill, swans, ducks, slilts, and plovers. Then we went to the Royal Albatross Center and checked out the nesting albatross. Following that we went to a beach to see the Yellow eyed penguin, NZ seals and NZ sea lions. The Yellow eyed penguins are endangered so it is a treat to see them. We were lucky enough to see one swim in from the water and limp up the beach to his home in the sand dunes. He had probably been bit by a barracuda. We saw several other penguins along the beach. We also saw a number of seals and sea lions.
I had a chance to wear my rain pants on the tour because it was quite windy and cold with a touch of rain. Shorts didn't cut it is as we sat quietly watching the wildlife.
There are a few photos of Queenstown (taken from the terrace at the Deco backpacker) and Dunedin here.
The next day I decided to move backpackers to a place called Manor House and to stay another day to do the Back to Nature Tour. Manor House is a really great place to stay - awesome staff, good beds, good shower. It is an old home converted to a backpacker.
The Back to Nature Tour is also a great tour. It was very reasonably priced and lasted from 2:30pm to 9:30pm. Our tour guide was Chris from Scotland (but born in NZ). Dunedin was settled by the Scottish. We went to Lanarch Castle and viewed native flora. Then on to a tidal flat to view birdlife - including the variable oystercatcher [my friend from Abel Tasman], the Royal Spoonbill, swans, ducks, slilts, and plovers. Then we went to the Royal Albatross Center and checked out the nesting albatross. Following that we went to a beach to see the Yellow eyed penguin, NZ seals and NZ sea lions. The Yellow eyed penguins are endangered so it is a treat to see them. We were lucky enough to see one swim in from the water and limp up the beach to his home in the sand dunes. He had probably been bit by a barracuda. We saw several other penguins along the beach. We also saw a number of seals and sea lions.
I had a chance to wear my rain pants on the tour because it was quite windy and cold with a touch of rain. Shorts didn't cut it is as we sat quietly watching the wildlife.
There are a few photos of Queenstown (taken from the terrace at the Deco backpacker) and Dunedin here.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
