Monday, July 17, 2017

Day 13 Travel to Pfunders

The weather finally cleared today. There were two large metal containers of milk outside the Gasthof. They must have been delivered in the night.

I hiked up to Gilderschartl Pass in clear, cool conditions. It was very beautiful. There were two amazing glaciers that were visible near the pass. From the pass I walked down to an amazing glacial lake called Grindlberger. It had clear water and was surround by the greenest grass or moss on one side.
I continued down a green grasssy valley. The views were amazing. I could see the Dolomites in the distance. I will be climbing them before this trip is over.
I came upon a small establishment called Obere Engbergalm. They were supposed to sell drinks but they didn't seem to have much besides beer and milk. The milk was in large metal containers sitting is cold running water to keep them cool. There were pigs and ducks onsite.
After an unsucesful attempt to get a drink I continued down and down. The water coming off the mountains cascaded over rocks in small and large waterfalls. The rain has made the middle mountains very green and lovely.
For awhike I walked on an old road that is only used as a hiking trail now. It was built right into the side of the mountain.
I am staying the night at Gasthof Brugger. I am happy to say that it has a great shower. The shower last night never got hot and had zero water pressure.
Distance: 20 km (12 miles)
Elevation up 1200m (almost 4000ft)
Elevation down 1550m (about 5000ft)
Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI
This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc

Sunday, July 16, 2017

Day 11 Incredible Beauty on the way to Olpererhutte

The weather report was a bit grim- a high chance of rain. As I prepared to leave the weather was okay. There were high clouds but no rain. The views from the hutbwere very nice. I couldn't see anything last night.

From the hut there was a moderate descent. Along the way I saw a super cute black salamander. As I descended I noticed a cloud bank making its way up the valley. I have to say that I worried that this might mean an end ro the views for the day. I worried as I walked but I saw a couple if marmots on my way. The cloud seemed to come and go so my worries were for nought. I hiked up to Spannagelhaus and then the real work began.

The "trail" was mostly red paint on rocks. I was able to find my way without a problem. I needed to cross a couple of snow fields. They were generally flat and didn't worry me. One was a little steep but I crossed it without problem. It was hard not to be distracted by views of the glacier as I ascended.

The views north from the Freisenbergcharte Pass were great. I couldn't see anything south at that point i began the steep descent. There were numerous fixed cables to navigate. I got down but not in a graceful manner. I thought I was done and I took out my poles but there was yet one more fixed cable section. I was navigating it with my poles and I just finished when Volker came down the trail. We decided to visit the Freisenberghaus.

The guide book made it seem like it was a few minute walk to the hut but it was a steep boulder scramble and snow walk. However, the hut was very nice near it was a beautiful lake. Volker and I had a snack and enjoyed the atmosphere. It was freezing when we came out but the extremely steep uphill hike back to the trail nicey warmed me up. By the time we got there the clouds had cleared and had great views. I told Volker to go ahead and I took lots of photos. After a bit I decided to walk to the hut. As I walked a turquoise blue lake came into view with huge glaciated mountains behind it - undoubtly feeding the lake.

I dawdled a bit to long and it started pouring. Then there was a sheep jam on the trail. I thought they were being sheparded by a figure in front if them but she crossed the suspension bridge and left then behind.

After I crossed the suspension bridge I arrived at the Olpererhutte. I like this hut very much. They are nice and the shower is hot

Distance 14km ( 9miles)
Elevation up 1400m ( 4620ft)
Elevation down 800m (2640ft)


Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc

Day 12 Give it five min and the weather will change - travel to Stein

As I left the hut I noticed that there was fresh snow on the surrounding mountains. It was pretty chilly and began to snow. I warmed as I hiked uphill. The path is called the Panorama Hohenweg. It has large cairns and at various points it is constructed of large slabs of rock. As I walked the views alternated between being obscured and then showing glimpses of towering glacier covered mountains across the valley. I walked through an amazing bowl with tarns and a small lake.

I continued to a pass called Pfitscher Joch. There I crossed into Italy. There was a guy whistling a song from the Sound of Music. I said "Hey the Sound of Music". He said yes and laughed. Then he asked me if the weather was any better in Italy as he was still in Austria. I told him it was. There was a pretty lake at the pass and a hut.

This area is called the South Tirol. It used to be part of Austria until WW I. In this area both German and Italian are spoken. There has been political unrest. The hut needed tonbe rebuilt after it was destroyed by a bomb during the unrest.

At the hut they had a big heart with ribbons. Inside the hut they give you two ribbons. You tie one on the heart and the other your wrist (I put it on my back pack)

I had a break at the hut with Rudy, Frank, and Volker. I left before them. The last 1.5 hours was down into the valley. There were huge mountains with hanging glaciers to the south east. I wanted to walk towards then but another storm approached. I walked down through the forest and fields to a small village called Stein. I am staying at the Gasthof Stein. The village seems to include only farms other than thus Gasthof and the one next door.

I saw three men wearinf the traditional Tirol hats. I askes them if would be okay to take a photo of them. They said okay.

I am not sure about dinner tonight the menu is literally hard to read. I did notice that they have omlettes but they are listed under dessert. I can't seem to get a clear answer on this but an omlette sounds good

Even though I am in my third country my guide tells me that I am not yet half way to Venice.

Today was a pretty wasy day. Tomorow will be another big day.

Distance: 13km
Elevation up: 400m(1320ft)
Elevation down: 1310m (4323ft)

Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI
This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc

Friday, July 14, 2017

Day 10 Rainy Hike to Tuxer Joch Haus

I was glad to have wet weather gear today. It rained on and off all day. I began walking and soon realized that my location did not match the gpx track. I walked back and asked a fellow on the trail. I dont think he understood what I was asking or just dodnt know the answer. I continued walking back and bumped into Rudy. He was following a different track. I went with him. It was a slighly differnet track than I had but it got us where we needed to be. The trail was muddy and slippery but we made the first pass - Geierjoch. There were unfortunately no views. We could barely see Junssee Lake. From there we descended and then ascended a scree field. Unfortunately we got off the trail a bit. It was a bit sketchy being off trail in slippery muddy scree. However me managed to scramble back up to the trail and eventually reached the second pass of the day. It was called Gschutzspizsattel. Unfortunately there were no views there either. We walkes down a muddy and slippery slope into the Weitental Valley. With that we left the Tux alps and entered the Zillertal alps. There were apparently many waterfalls surrounding us but we didnt see any until we reached a huge one at the valley bottom. It was really pretty. We were taking photos of it when about 25 people showed up. It must have been some type of tour. I realized at this point that my spot tracker hadnt been turned on all day

Then it was uphill again to to another pass and our hut. We decided to take the road as the trails were very wet and our shoes squishy with water

I wasn't at the hut 15 min when Volker and Frank showed up. They had lost their way and took the ski lift up.

The hut has some type of shoe/boot warming system that I hope dries my shoes before tomorrow. I am not sure what I will do tomorrow. Its a big day but the weather doesn't look great.

Distance 12 km
Elevation up 1140 m. (3700ft)
Elevation down 870m (2800 ft)


Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc

Day 9 Hike to Lizumer Hut

Today's hike was along an incredible ridge in the Tux Mountains. We summited six peaks on a variety of trail types. At times we were scrambling over boulders. At other times it was normal trail. Then there were several cable assisted areas. The views were phenomenal. I walked with Frank, Volker and Lisbeth to make sure that we all made if safely over the crest. I saw another marmot today. There doesn't seem to be as much wildlife here compares to the US
After the six peaks we weren't done. We hiked through a military training area to the hut. There seemed to be quite a bit of helicopeter activity. There was also some type of troup training exercise
The people running the Luzimer hut were pretty funny. They kept joking about the hot tub in the rooms. I washed my clothes and put them on the clothes line. Of course it then started pouring. Luckily they had a heated drying room and my clothes did dry by the next day. Just before dinner they sais go outside and see the pigs. By the time I got there they were gone. One of the hut workers said something like "soon they will be speck (bacon)"
Dinner was good- more spinat nudel. I hit the sack early. Feeling tired.
Distance 15km (9 miles)
Elevation up 750m. (2475ft)
Rlevation down 1330m. (4400ft)

Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Day 8 Up to Glungezer Hut

There were a few options for today. I could have walked all the way to the hut. That would have been 2400 m (almost 8000ft) elevation gain. I could have taken the bus to the chair lift and then the chair lift. That would have been 575 m (just under 2000 ft) elevation gain. What I did was about 960m( 3000ft) elevation gain. I walked from Hall up to the chair lift. Then took the chair lift and walked up from there.

I left Hall via the castle. I turns out that in 1486 a coin was minted there that was "coined" the first dollar. Forgive the pun.

From there I walked in a variety of trails and roads to to Tulfies. Along the way I met a woman who spoke no English. She was picking rasberries along the trail. She tried to tell ne something about the birds or flying but I have no idea what she said.

I saw a deer along the trail and some adorable sheep. There trails were quite confusing but I ended up in the right place. The gpx file and gaia are invaluble on this hike because when out of the mountains themselves the signage is poor or non-existent.

From Tulfies I took a chairlift up. It was actually two lifts. I got off the normal chair lift and on a one person chair lift. Well I was hesitant to get on. It was an odd looking contraption and I had to manage my large pack. I tried to motion to the attendant that I wanted to wait and watch someone else. However he shut the whole lift down and loaded me on. It didn't go smoothly so maybe that was the best thing. My poles kind of got in the way of the guard bar. I held my pack tightly all the way up. I was able to get off at the top without dropping my pack or tripping over myself.

The view from there was awesome. I could see the mountains that I hiked over and down yesterday. They were shrouded in cloud. It was so beautiful.

I stopped off to continue my apfel strudel tour. It was actually chilly. The waitress asked me where I am from and when I told her she said its cold here. I replied no its nice. I have been walking from Munich and it has been very hot. They were impressed that I am doing the Munich Venice walk and showed me the way to the path.

I wasn't walking long when I noticed Volker in front of me. He had taken the bus and chair lift and must have pased me while I was strudeling.

We walked up to the hut together. I had my first Austrian marmot sighting. Along the way we compared health care in the US and Germany. It is interesting that both countries are struggling with this topic.

We followed a trail and thought we were lost. We didnt see the hut. Then we had to laugh at ourselves as we were standing right next to it. There were bright prayer flags flying next to the hut.

We checked in with a lady and her child from Poland. The host is a jolly soul. He had alot to say about our president and none of it good. That seems to be the general consensus over here. No one seems to hold it against me personally. After checking in he gave us shots of pflaumen (plum) schnaps. Schnaps is a specialty of the region. He wouldnt take no for an answer. It burned going down. Maybe this was punishment for the US presidential choice. How many years ago was it that I drank cold peppermint schnaps? Feels like a lifetime.

The hut hires cooks from Nepal. I spoke to the cook who is from the Everest region. He is here for four months to cook. I asked him if we would have dal baht but sadly no only lentil soup. There was some sherpa soup with momos but they are beef momos. I had lentil soup which seems like the first healthy thing that I have eaten in ages. It came with bread made right here on the mountain. It was delicious. The bread came with Schmalz(lard with bacon?) I didn't touch that.

Later I went for a walk and I saw a Materialseilbahn (material lift) bringing thing up to the hut much like a chair lift for supplies.

I walked up to a nearby peak and it started raining. I came back for my rain jacket but when I went back outside it was pouring so i decided to write my blog instead.

They are playing great music in the hut. All American classics
Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Day 7 Down to Hall

Today began with an invigorating hike straight up to a pass where I had my last views of Karwendal NP. Pretty views both ways from the saddle and then down, down, down through an amazing meadow where I saw a larger mammal- maybe a chamois bounding into the trees. The meadows was lush and wet from last nights rain.

I did a quick stop at an old monestary. It is now a place to grab a quick bite to eat but it was closed today.

Below that I walked by an old salt mine. They seem to remove the salt from the rock with water and then pipe the brine down and check purification levels at stations along the way. I am not sure if the mine is still operational but there has been salt mining in that location for over 2600 years.

Friom there I hiked into the historic town of Hall. On the way a kindly gentleman in a car offered me a ride because Hall is "2 km away". Little did he know that I had walked all the way from Munich. What is 2km after that?

Hall is very pretty with lots of old world charm. I ended up getting an apartment for the night. It only cost €54. Since a cheap hotel room costs €49, I consider that a great bargain.

I was able to do a couple of necessary things- like get a new usb charger since I lost the european power attachment for the one I brought with me. I also bought some dried apricots. The diet of kasenspatzle and spinatknudel doesn't seem to have my normal fiber content wreaking havoc on my bodily functions. Also to my utter glee I found some cliff bars and diet coke at the grocery store.

I had dinner with one of my hiking buddies and turns out we are heading in the same direction. (There are a number of variants at this point and a number of people that I had been hiking with split off to do the other variant ) There is another challenging piece of hiking coming up in two days and we are going to tackle it together for safety.

Distance 14 km
Elevation 240 (800ft) m up / 1450 m (4700ft) down

Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI