Day 20 Big up to Rifugio Tissi

Despite organizing an early breakfast, I thought that I would go without. We went to the hotel at 8:30ish last night to pay and get my breakfast but they basically told us to get lost and come back at 10pm. Since my plan was to wake at 5am that didn't work well for me. Also I knew that it wasn't going to be quick. It never seems to be quick at this hotel. I decided to give my share of the cost to Vanessa and Mike and not worry about breakfast. They said we could settle at the next hut and I went to bed.

As I left I found my breakfast hanging on the door. That was a good start to the day. I felt great going up the mountain. It was cool and I made good time it seems like in no time I was at Rifugio Coldai. Along the way I saw a large group of sheep and goats being herded by a shepard and dog. There were some very tiny lambs that kept getting left behind. The shepard would pick then up and give them a boost in the right direction. It was all very cute.

I had a quick snack and hiked over the pass to Coldai Lake. I took a ton of photos. Then I went over another pass and hiked below the towering vertical cliffs of the Civetta group.

Then there was one steep climb up to Rifugio Tissi which sits almost on top of a little peak. About 50 people were descending as I ascended. It was quite busy. Just after I arrived lots more people arrived. I figure that must be related to the start of the Gondola.

The hut is located just across from a vertical wall of the Civetta. However the room is the most cramped room that I have had.

I washed up in the sink and walked up to the peak behind the refuge. It has a beautiful view if both the Civetta and north to Lake Alleghe and the mountains I came from.

Distance:14km (8 miles)
Elevation up: 1760 m (5800ft)
Elevation down: 350m (1,150ft)


Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
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Day 19 Rest day in Alleghe

We had a nice breakfast and then I returned to the room to ensure that my GI problems from the previous evening weren't ongoing. I did a bit more laundry and then declared myself cured.

I decided to walk around the lake. It was beautiful with the mountains and clouds reflected in the lake. A number of white swans were swimming around the lake. There were tiny houses floating on the water for ducks.

I bumped into Vanessa and Mike playing dice by the side of the lake. We chatted a bit and then I continued around the lake to Masare.

In Masare I hiked up to a pretty little waterfall. One the way back I met a man gathering rasberries.

I wrote yesterday's blog under a tree next to the lake. It was relaxing.

I returned to the hotel where I renewed my teaching credential because I got a notification from both the California Teacher Commission and the school district telling me to do so.

I bumped into Lisbeth who will now be on the same track as me. She is also staying in the same hotel.

The weather is about to take a turn for the worse. There will be some rain tomorrow and more than an inch of rain the next day. I will be up on the mountain and I may take a rain day up there if it is too rainy. I hope that it is clear when I go by Lake Coldai tomorrow. It is supposed to be very pretty.

I hope that dinner tonight doesn't cause any more GI problems.

Distance:
Elevation up:
Elevation down:

Day 18 Travel to Alleghe

I did not leave early. Instead I had breakfast with Vanessa and Mike and we walked to Alleghe together. The day began with beautiful views of the Marmolada and its glaciers. We walked along a brilliant green ridge towards Lake Fredaia and then began a steep descent to the village at the lake. We had hoped to visit the WWI museum but it didn't open until 10. We did see an interesting "chair" lift. This lift could carry two people up the mountain standing. It was pretty interesting.

From there we walked first on pavement and then down a ski slope. We were navigating pretty well until the path ran into a creek. We went down a grass slope. I was pretty sure we went past a sign that said no entry but I couldn't see another way to go. (In fact I think we were at that point on the track outlines in the book). Then a bunch if dogs went crazy barking at us an an Italian woman gave us a piece of her mind. We had no idea what she was saying but it didnt sound nice. I believe if we had stayed with the road there we would have been on the correct track. Instead flustered and wanting to leave the scene of our crime we headed towards a campground that was referenced in our book. That was slightly off course. However, the very nice campground manager told us which way to go and soon we arrived at the Sottoguda Gorge.

The Sottoguda Gorge has a toll for walkers. You can also take the train (truck driven). We decided to walk. The guidebook said the toll was 3.50€. However, the sign said it was 3€. That seemed great. The cashier told me to be sure and keep my ticket for the return trip. I told him there was no return trip because we were heading to Alleghe. Then he said that I am supposed to tell him that when I buy the ticket. Turns out the one way pedestrian toll is only 2€. Who knew?

The Sottoguda Gorge had tall moss covered walls and a stream running through it. The tempurature in it was very nice. We had a quick snack at a bench. One of the very interesting things in the gorge were tunnels dug by soldiers in WWI to store gun powder. These same tunnels were used in WWII as air raid shelters. They have also been extensively studied by biologists interested in molluscs.

We left to gorge and arrived in cute town of Sottoguda. The intersting thing about this town is that they have placed manniquins all over the town to demonstrate the traditional lifestyle. We also noticed that wood was not only neatly stacked it was decorated with designs in the stacks and flowers within the stacks.

From there we walked to Alleghe. It was supposed to be an "easy" day but we were tired when we arrived. However, it was great to go to the grocery store which had a coupke cold coke zeros. Then ran out after I drank them. There was also a place in the supermarket that sold wine by the liter. You could buy a container or they would fill your water bottle. We didn't buy any but I think that Vanessa and Mike will get some later.

We had a little happy hour on the balcony of our hotel - the Garni Eaperia. Then headed out to dinner. We decided on a pizza place. I got a pizza with zuchini and corn. It was yummy but my stomach wasn't so good later. On out bill was a cover charge. In the US we normally associate this with a club but this is a common practice in Italy as is closing shops for a couple of hours in the afternoon.

We are taking a rest day in Alleghe as we are a day ahead and we have been hiking for 18 days straight with significant elevation gain/ loss each day.

Distance: 24km( 14.88miles)
Elevation up: 230m (750ft)
Elevation down: 1670m (5500ft)

Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc

Day 17 Lots of climbing ending at Rifugio Viel dal Pan

As usual I got an early start. It was great as I was the only one climbing up the Val Setus, a gash in the side of the Sella (the area of the Dolomites I am currently in). It was a steep scree climb and then a scramble up the rock face aided by fixed cables. The guide book describes it as an almost vertical rock face. I don't think it was quite that bad.

Once I had conquered that I walked past a hut situated above a pretty lake called Lago di Pisciadu. There to my disappointment a group if people hopped on the trail right in front of me. After taking lots of photos I soon passed them. I then realised that the climbing had just begun. I climbed up to the highest point on the Traumpfad- the Altipiano delle Meisules. It was a high plateau providing great views from where I came.

I took a break there to savor the moment and got back to it. I descended from
there and along the way saw some intricate rock designs that people had made. A short climb brought me to another hut. I stopped only to check my directions and then walked up to some type of stone marker. I traversed the edge of the mountain and walked by another hut (an lots of people). The most interesting thing about this hut was the outhouse put back that had great views.

I decided not to do the steep descent and instead walked up to the gondola. There were phenomenal views back and forward from the gondola. Back I could see the crazy landscape that I had walked over. Forward I could see the glacier covered Marmolada. The gondola trip down was fun.

The Marmolada is a volcanic moutain with the last surviving glaciers in the Dolomites. This area was the location of very intense fightinf during WWI. Artifacts from the war are being recovered as the glacier retreats due to global warming. The border between Austria and Italy used to run through the Marmolada. It was part of the frontline during the war. An under the ice s city with tunnels was built in the glaciers. More and more Italian seems to be spoken. I think that south of here I won't see or hear any more German

From the base of the gondola I walked up to a ridge that was opposite the Marmolada. I walked along that ridge that had incredible views of where I descended from which looked very far away, views of the north face of the Marmolada with its glaciers and views of the very pretty Lago di Fedaia.

Soom I arrived at my hut for the night. It has fantastic views. The name of the hut is Viel dal Pan. Google translate doesn't tell me what that means

Distance: 14.2 km
Elevation up: 1500 (5000ft)
Elevation down: 240m (800m)


Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
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Day 16 Climb a Chimney in the Dolomites

First a word in the "emergency accomodation" at the hut. They through mattresses on the floor and gave usb lankets. I thought that I had a pretty good spot in a little sitting room. However it was across from the bathroom. I was up most if the night with people going in and out. Two guys were in the hall. They were stepped on. Vanessa and Mike were at the end of the hall and fared pretty well. Finally Lisbeth was up stairs with a group of people. Apparently the room dwellers didnt appreciate that hikers hit the sack early and made lots of noise and mocked then for sleeping early.

Today I walked with Vanessa and Mike from Calgary. The day began with a traverse and then a steep ascent through scree. We saw a farmer milking a cow along the way.

Then a traverse over to the base of a rock chimney. We climbed up the chimney with the aid of fixed steel cables and a ladder. It was challenging but exhilarating.

From the top we walked over to the Puez hut. The landscape was described as a moonscape. While walking through a section of pinnacle like rocks, we (I) was asked to speak quietly. I guess I was being the typical loud american.
We saw some fun marmots, goats and sheeps on the way.
That is the days destination per our book. However, it was full and we didn't want the matress dilema again. We also still had plenty of energy. We walked three hours to a refugio that had plenty of space. The next couple days are short so we are considering combing them and having a rest day at Alleghe.
Distance: 18.8km ( 11.5 miles)
Unknown elevation:

Day 15 Into the Dolomites

My journey began by walking past the lager or dorm. Everyone else stayed in the dorm. There was a parade of cows going into the bottom floor of the dorm building to be milked. I am not sure that anyone was sleeping in today.

The trail was confusing at times today. I took a wrong turn but figured it out pretty quickly. The first part of the hike was along the top of a rounded mountain. The views all ways were fantastic.

I hiked up a small peak with a great 360 view of the mountains around. Then on undulating trail which passed a mountain chapel and a small lake (almost a puddle) with a big wooden boat in it to a hut that sits directly opposite the northernmost mountain in the Dolomite chain (Peitlerkofel). I had an orange soda there while I dried my socks and doctored a small blister. From there I headed steeply down into a valley and then back uo the other side. After a bit I came to the Wurzjoch where I fortified myself with an apfel studel
Then I walked down to the next trailhead. There I found a sign indicating that the Dolomites are a UNESCO world heritage site due to the uniqueness of the rock and ecology.

Things are now sometimes listed in three languages - Italian, German and Ladin. Ladin is an ancient Roman language.
There at the trailhead were some creepy statues. I am not sure what that was all about
From there it was an almost 1000 ft climb to the pass. It was afternoon by this point and pretty warm. I sweated my way up to the pass. There I was treated to incredible view if the surrounding mountains. Here the trail joins the the Famous Alta Via trail through the Dolomites

I took the last 30 min very slow. I was just amazed by the views. I eventually arrived at the hut. There I found some unwelcome news they were booked. However, they are going to give us emergency accomodation- mattresses on the floor. All of the Venice hikers seem to be in the same boat. I guess it will be a slumber party. It also turns out that all the next huts are booked.
Distance: 22km (14 miles)
Elevation up: 1370m(4500ft)
Elevation down: 990m (3200ft)
Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI
This is is my track for the last seven days
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Day 14 Transition from Zitteral Alps to the Dolomites

Today was not the most exciting day but it had to be done to get to the Dolomites. It began with a road walk and walks on tracks that paralleled the road. Most of the German walkers skipped this section by taking a bus. Frank left today via train to return home. Rudy will take two rest days in a nearby larger city which he will reach by walking and train. Volker will take one rest day because he booked all of his accomadation one day off.

In the early morning I saw a man driving a three wheeled truck (two back wheels and one front wheel). He was towing a big metal tin. I thought he was delivering milk and managed to point at it and say "latte" which I think is Italian for milk. He smiled and nodded and laughed when I took a picture. That was in Vallarga.

From there I walked to Niedervintl. I visited to grocery store there but sadly there was no cold diet coke or cliff bars. I did find some dried apricots. Google maps told me there was another shop but I wasnt able to find it. In fact a woman sent me back to the original store.

I left the town and walkes through some very tall corn and crossed a river. Then I hiked up through the forest. It was pretty steep in places. I had views of the Pfunders valley that I had walked down from on the other side of the river.

Up, up, up I walked. One the way I could see the logging in the area. I also walked through some green meadows. Finally I reached the Roner Hut. I took a small break there. They had a "dog bar" with bowls to fill for furry friends. Also an electric bike charging station.

From there I walked along a open high area with mountain views all around including the Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites which will be a target tomorrow.

The high areas are cultivated to grow hay. It was being harvested. First cut, then racked and then collected and rolled.

Finally I arrived at my destination for the night the Kreuzweisen Alm. It has been around since 1925. It is a working dairy that makes it own cheese. I am in a room not the dorm which is over the cow shed and reported to be smelly.

Distance: 24km
Elevation Up:1500m(almost 5000ft)
Elevation Down 800m (2600ft)

Photos at https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0q532ODWVPkrI

This is is my track for the last seven days
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0ZqguMWq0nIVvMudyEDQOcLFQgoN7hGXc