Day 27 Walk to Bocca Callalta

I left the hotel and walked through town. I crossed the River Piave on a large bridge. The first bridge in that area was built by the Romans. It has been important crossing throughout the centuries. I descended from the bridge to a "path".

The beginning of the hike was a bit rough. It was raining and slippery and the trail didn't look like a trail. It was overgrown but I perservered and soon it became more "trail" like. I walked along the river which was very pretty at that time of the day. At one point I was attacked by mosquitos but I fought back with insect repellent At one junction I saw a parade of four tractors. I wondered where they were going. (Later I believe that I saw them again )

Just after that I came to a large war memorial for WWI. It was called Osteria Al Glorioso Piave. This was the final battle of WWI. The British Gordon Highlanders were essential to the victory of this battle called Vittorio Veneto. A nice man walking asked me where I was going and wished me luck.

I walked by many crops. Grapes, corn, aparagus, tomatos and things that I could not identify. There were places to buy wine from the vineyards.

I had forgotten that today is Sunday so many places were closed. The grocery store in town was closed in a small village that I walked by. I found a little cafe but it seemed to mostly sell coffee. I had an ice cream.

I walked on. It was pretty hot. I saw a father and son buying water from a machine. Later I thought that would have been a good idea to buy some. I went by what looked like an old gun emplacement and bunker. Then I came to another village. Again the grocery store was closed. There was a little cafe. They didn't seem that interested in helping me. They didn't have the first thing that I asked for. I went out on the patio and thought it over and when I went back in. They completely ignored me. Despite the lack of options I left.

I walked on. I saw many tractors (at least 10) and other farm equipment parked by an old building. There was a marquee. I think the tractor parade that I saw earlier in the morning came here. It seemed like some type if farm club. There was some historic farmequipment there as well. At least I think it was historic. There was a group of people eating under the marquee. The field next to them looked like it had just been tilled so maybe they did that too

Soon I saw another one of those water machines. I was hot and decided to check it out. It dispensed water and soda water. There seemed to be a spot for coins and credit cards. The credit card slot didn't work. I figured that you need a special card. I had pulled out all my change when someone else came to buy water. He put his card in for me. It was so nice. He wouldn't take any money. I asked him if he had children. He said yes. I gave him a quarter. He said that he didn't want it but I told him that it was from the USA and it was for his children. I figure that all kids like money from other countries. He took it. I think that he told me that he has family in the US but I can't be sure.

Then I walked on to my final destination. I walked past the Museo Soldati Della Battaglia. It was closed but looked quite impressive. Per the book it is modernist Italian Facist architecture.

Soon I came to my hotel. For a moment I thought it was going to be repeat of yesterday but a very nice man stepped out and checked me in. The room was very pretty and cooled by AC.

I had a great spinach and zuchinni pizza for dinner. Tomorrow is going to be a long hot day. However, I am hoping to see some wildlife in the wetlands

Distance: 26km (16 miles)


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This is is my track for the last seven days
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Day 26 Walk through the vineyards to Ponte Della Priula

Trying to avoid the heat I started as early as possible. Initially I walked through the forest which seemed to be mosquito friendly. I pulled out the insect repellent that purchased earlier in the trip and gave myself a liberal coat. That helped keep those blood suckers at bay. Good thing I didn't chuck it to lighten the load. I haven't needed it for over two weeks.

I walked through many vineyards which were very picturesque. Then I came to an old mill powered by a water wheel (17th century). It was still in use until around 1950. It was then turned into a preserved historic site. In 2014 the area was hit by a flash flood at the same time that an event was being hosted at the old mill. Many people were injured and four died.

From there I walked on through a couple of towns. Then I arrived at Collato. Collato is the site of a 12th century castle. I was not able to enter the grounds because it is very unstable. It was bombed during WWI and largely destroyed. The tower remains standing and some of the wall around it. I stopped at a restaurant right next to it. The owner was very interesting. She told me all about the castle and showed me an image of what it looked like long ago. She told me that she had traveled to the US and it changed her life. After the trip she knew that she wanted to live outside of Italy. Since she couldn't get a green card, she moved to England and met her husband who is German. They have moved a bit and came to Callato two years ago. She also told me that I am the first American she has met doing the Munich to Venice hike. I don't think I am the first to do it but I may be the first to walk all the way to Venice. So many people bail out early because they are only interested in the mountains or it just gets too hot. (Yes it is pretty hot)

From there I walked on and on. I didn't see any other hikers but I did see many people on bikes and a couple of runners. Eventually I arrived at Colfosco. There I walked on a levee of the River Piave. This is the site of an important WWI battle. The AustoHungarians had the Italians on the run. The Italians dug in at the river and held the line. There were a couple more really big battles held at the river including the last battle of WWI after which Italy made huge territorial gains. There is supposed to be information along the river but I have yet to see it.

What I did see was a bee keeper at work. He (or she) was in full protective gear. The bees were smoked to calm them and then they hives were examined. That was pretty interesting.

I dragged my hot body and sore feet to the hotel. The door was locked and there was a sign saying the bar was closed. There was no information about the hotel. A very nice lady tried to help me but she seemed to want me to go up to someone's apartment. Luckily the gate was locked because I didn't feel comfortable doing that. Then I walked across the street to the Gelato place. They had also been watching me. They called the hotel. I ate a gelato. After I was done they hadn't any luck so we walked over because she wanted to bang on the door. She read the sign and called again. By this time someone else had come over. She called someone else and told me that they would come to the hotel. I was so impressed with how nice these people were. They didn't even speak English and were surprised that I wasn't German.

I eventually got checked in and told them that Lisbeth and her dad were coming. The really good news is that the room has air conditioning. Alls well that ends well.

To anyone who is considering doing this. I do have to say that today involved alot of road walking. It wasn't horrible but for some people it might not be the right thing.

There was some up and down today but it wasn't much and after today there will be little to no elevation change.

Distance: 29 km (18 miles)


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Day 25 Descent to Tarzo

I woke early hoping to take a sunrise photo of the plains and the Adriatic and maybe even Venice. However the hut was shrouded in cloud so it didn't happen. I delayed a bit but it wasn't clearing anytime soon.

I walked down the road to a trail that traveled over very green hills and several mini summits. Along the way I met a man putting his cattle out to pasture. Even though I don't speak Italian and he didn't speak English we had somewhat of a conversation. I found put that all the land around was his. His dog's name was Lady. Two of his cattle (which were all white) had foot problems so they stayes in the barn. He also offerred me a cup of coffee which I thought was really nice.
From there I traveled over a few more green hills with old stone fences and then down to another refuge. It was supposed to have lots of war memorabilia but it didnt have much. It did have a huge crazy looking boar head. The day before I noticed up turned ground like an animal had been routing around in it. I am guessing that was done by wild pigs. The hut sold strudel for only 2.50 € and I had some. It had a big sign saying the water wasn't potable so I filtered some water. Sometimes I wonder if they put up those signs to make you buy water.
From there the trail traveled through forest for quite a ways. It dumped out just above the village of Revine. There was a really big church structure called a sanctuary there. It was built on the site of a former castle. Part of the church was used as an infirmiry for plague victims.

I walked through Revine which had many old stone buildings and the up a small hill opposite. I followed trails and road to Tarzo. I was on the lookout for my hotel but overshot it. Realizing my mistake I trudged back up to it sweating like crazy. I must not have looked that great when I walked in because the nice reception man gave me a soda water without even asking me anything.

The hotel http://albergoaipini.it/en/albergo/ntury i s quite old. In some places it says 17th and in others it says 18th century. It is very majestic and overlooks a vineyards. It is more expensive that what I have been spending but I think it is a good price for the type of hotel that it is. The people who work there are super nice as well. They let me put my washes clothes on their drying rack and are willing to put my breakfast out early for me. It was very hot today and I will be starting very early from now on to beat as much heat as possible.

Distance:18 km (11 miles)
Elevation up: 130m (400ft)
Elevation diwn 1670m (5500ft)

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Day 24 Final climb up to Rifugio Col Visentin

Mike and Vanessa left at 5:15am to catch a train to Florence. I got ip when theh left and hit the road at 5:45 after being releases from the hotel by the night receptionist. I walked down the the stairs to the river. As I descended I could see the escalator enclosed in plastic. It seemed to be closed. I prefer the stairs anyway.

I crossed the River Piave that I know I will be walking by on some future days. The I walked through some smaller villages, mountain roads and trails. The trail markkng was a bit scarce at times and I decided to walk a variant that wasn't part if the gpx track that I have. However, I was able to make my way without issue. Along the way there were some pretty river pools and I saw a couple gathering berrries

I returned to the main route and soon was in Nevega. I stopped in the grocery store (which didn't have cold diet coke) and bought a snack. The young woman who served me had many questions about the trail. I showed her my book and told her about life on the trail. When she picked up my pack, I think she was a little shocked.

From there I hiked through the ski area and beyond. The trail was good and even cool in some places. The last bit was a bit of a grunt but I had wonderful views of the Dolomites.

The rifugio had tons of communciations equipment around it. However it is made of stone and has a tower. It is kind if a contradiction. It is the last hut that I will stay at on this trip. From here on out it will be hotels as I make my way to Venice.

I bought Mike and Vanessa and myself Munich to Venice stickers. I had hoped for a shirt. The last hut had really cute shirts. However there are no shirts here. Probably best it would have just made my backpack heavier.

Dustance: 17km (10 miles)
Elevation up: 1600m (5000ft)
Elevation down: 270m ( 890ft)

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Day 23 Travel to Belluno

There were three choices of travel to Belluno. The first was a Via Ferrata route. That posed a few problems including lack of equipment, lack of experience and it was a descent not an ascent making it a more difficult first experience. The second was a trail that was not well marked and in 8 miles went up and then down more than 7000ft. That didn't seem to be a good solo option. The final choice was what I did.

It began with a slight ascent over a ridge and the. A big descent under the towering wallks of the Dolomites. The trail went past pretty waterfalls and gorges but it was bittersweet. I knew as I hjked down that this was the end of my alpine days.

From the bottom there was a bus to take us to Belluno. Vanessa and Mike and I shared a room. It was good to have a nice shower and we did alot of laundry. We visited the supermarket where I was lucky to find a cold diet coke. A question that we askes ourselves on the trail is "Why is diet come called coke light outside the US and Canada"? Inquiring minds would like to know

I had a chance to walk around the old town. I stumbled aross the old and huge door to the old town. There were many old buildings and churches which were interesting to look at. I couldn't find the eacalator that I was supposed to rake the next day but I did find a staircase that would take me down by the river where the trail starts

After I made my way back to the hotel (using Google Maps) we tried to pay our hotel bill. The recptionist said to pay later. She gave us a recommendation for dinnerr. I showed Vanessa and Mike where I had explores and then we went to dinner. At 7pm it was early jn Italy and we were the first people to arrive. We got a great table on the terrace overlooking the river. Dinner for Vanessa and I was an amazing pizza of zuchinni, feta and pesto.

By 8 I was ready to head back to the hotel to pay, pack and hit the sack. It was not to be. After much too and fro I was able to pay the receptionist my share of the room if I paid in cash. (The earlier receptionist said there would be no problem splitting the bill) There was also the problem of getting out. Apparently we were locked is so I had to give her the exact time that I would leave. In the end it was all settled.

Distance 10 km (6 miles)
Elevation up 150m (500ft)
Elevation down 1650m (5000ft)



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Day 22 Just beat the rain on the way to Rifugio Pian Fontana

I rose early. However there was already a line for the bathroom at 5:20. I waited patiently but one guy was pacing back and forth making more noise than necessary.

I went outside and took a pretty sunrise photo. Then I walked down to Passo Duran. There were some cute donkeys across the street. I had a little road walk from there. Some kindly gentleman thought I was going the wrong way and gave me advice but my phone told me that I was going the right way.

From there I climbed up and walked in a basin with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. I could even see back to the Marmolada with its glaciers.

From there I hiked up to another pass where an old (early 1900) army barracks is located. It was surrounded by towering cliffs. I walked down to a rifugio. It was around 11:00 but they didn't seem very happy to see me. They grudgingly sold me an very small piece of apfel strudel and gave me a package if biscuits. I dried my socks a bit and went on my way. It was a grunt of a climb from there but exceedingly beautiful. There were just amazing mountains everywhere.

The other side was also beautiful. I sat at the pass for awhile and enjoyed the beauty. Then I started down. There were lots of marmots on the way down. They were pretty skittish and didn't want to sit still while I took their photo. Go figure!

There was a sign that the trail is very steep. I am not sure what they thought someone would do at that point. Turn around and go back? There wasn't another option.

It was a steep downhill but it has become par for the course.

There was an outhouse that is only a hole in the floor behind the hut. I went inside and got the bad new. They were full up. I had called the night before but I guess that I called the wrong hut.

It may be a night if emergency accomodation.

Distance: 20 km (12 miles)
Elevation up: 1200m ( 3900ft)
Elevation down: 1300m (4200ft)

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Day 21 Thunder and Lightening on the way to Rifugio Bruto Carestiato

A word about our room at Rifugio Tissi. There were five beds. However, if there were five beds and five backpacks, there would be no way to move around the room. Luckily it was just Vanessa, Mike and I. We still had a hard time moving around the room.

We woke to thunder, lightening and pouring rain. This was not entirely unexpected as we had been monitoring the weather forecasts. I dressed in rain pants and rain jacket.

Breakfast was a bit limited. There were bowls but no cereal or yogurt. The was a container of cocoa powder next to the bowls. Maybe people eat cocoa powder in bowls?

As luck would have it the weather cleared by the time we left. We had brilliant views of the Civetta group. We descended to Rifugio Vazzoler and then amended our clothing as it was warm and sunny outside.

From there is was a further descent. We almost missed it but Vanessa picked it uo saving us a costly mistake in time, distance and elevation. We walked through forest and scree under the wall of the Moiazza. Then we noticed the clouds rolling in and just like that the views were obliterated. Then we hears the thunder. We moved quickly over the Forcella Col dell'Orso pass. We stopped and put our rain jackets back on. We traversed the hillside and the storm moved in. Then we headed up and over another saddle called the Forcella del Camp. The lightening and thunder increased in intensity as we traversed the south flank of the Moiazza. We picked up the pace. It was pretty cloudy and we were walking in the clouds but I could make out the rifugio in the distance. We made it without incident.

We were pretty wet when we arrived. However a 1€ 2min shower felt amazing and they even have a dryer to dry our clothes.

Distance: 16km (10 miles)
Elevation up: 740m (2400ft)
Elevation down: 1160m (3800ft)

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This is is my track for the last seven days
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