Powers Cabin backpack

The goal of this backpack was to reach the cabin where in 1918 the Powers family were involved in a gunfight with local law enforcement. The Powers family was mining gold in what is now the Galiuro Wilderness in the Coronado National Forest near Wilcox, AZ. The Powers sons failed to register for the draft (likely because they were illiterate and didn't understand the letter requiring this). Local law went up to the cabin at dawn and a gunfight ensued in which the father was killed, the sheriff was killed and the sons fled on horseback. It is theorized that the failure to register for the draft was just an excuse and that the real reason for the gunfight was control over the gold mine. Whatever the reason, this led to one of the largest manhunts in Arizona history.

The backpack epic started with a small adventure on what might be loosely called a road. We were supposed to start from FR 159 but a section that went through a private land area was closed. We went on a 'workaround' which was a road fit for an ATV but was well handled by Wilma in her 4WD truk. This was more of a problem because we missed the turn off to get to FR 159. This section of the "road" so hectic that we were hanging on with white knuckles. When we realized that we were in the wrong place we debated bushwacking to the right place. Instead we backtracked in the truck and found the turnoff. The next obstacle was a road closed sign. After a bit of discussion we drove past that to the trailhead hoping we wouldn't get a ticket) (which we didn't) . Finally at the trailhead we started the climb. The heavy packs slowed everyone down. Each person carried between 35 and 39 pounds. We knew that coming out would be better because most of the food would be eaten and the stove fuel used up.

We climbed 2000 feet to our high point (Skyline). On the way there were a few questions as to the correct direction to take however between the gps, topo maps and common sense we made it the top and were rewarded with amazing views. Then we had a few miles of downhill dropping most of that 2000 feet to our camp site. I had concerns that we were arriving quite late and went ahead to scout the turnoff for it. On the way I found water and a closer campsite so I decided to hike back up and tell the others. After I found them we discussed our options and decided to fill our water bottles and move on to Holdout Spring where we planned to camp.

We initially thought that holdout springs was one of the places the Powers boys hid during their flight from the Law but later found out it wasn't. Once we got there we filled our water bottles with water from the spring and checked out a nearby cave. People had built fireplaces and a loft into the cave. We discussed staying in it but were put off by the bats and the insects in the cave. Instead we walked back to a near campsite built a campfire, set up the bear bag and pitched our tents in the dark. Dinner was quite late and I sacked out soon after.

The next morning we got up, ate a leisurely breakfast of oatmeal (breakfast of choice for backpackers) and explored another nearby cave. We decided to watch sunset from this cave as it was high above our campsite. Afterwards we headed downstream to Rattlesnake Creek (but luckily didn't see any snakes) and up to Powers cabin. I was feeling quite poor with a nagging headache. At the cabin the girls re-enacted the Powers family shoot out and we had lunch. As the others were reading the Powers story I explored the nearby Powers gold mine and decided to head back to camp to rest and try to get rid of my headache. I am not quite sure how it happened but I took a wrong turn on my way back. I soon realized and returned to the junction. I reviewed the map and headed out three times making the same wrong turn each time. Eventually the others came down from the Cabin and set me off in the right direction. On the way back we stopped at some nice pools in the creek. There were more of the Powers story was read while feet were soaked in the water. It was getting late so we started heading back. Unfortunately, half of us missed the turn off for Holdout Springs. We barely made it back by sunset. I felt like I should get the bonehead backpacker award by this time.

We walked up to the cave to watch the sunset. Wilma found some ancient artifacts from either Indians or early man by the cave. How cool was that? After the sunset we set out to eat as much food as we could to lighten our packs for the hike out the next day. It was a great meal of chana masala, cous cous, sundried tomatos, rice pilaf, and beef stew (not for me). We discussed our plans for the next day (an early wake up to try and beat the heat walking up the mountain). I hit the sack early (as usual) and the others stayed up reading the Powers family story.

The next morning we were up before six but still didn't manage to break camp until 7:50. I guess these things always take longer than you think. We headed out and up the side of the mountain. We were a little concerned about Carolyn's knee which had significantly swollen over the last two days. I lent her my hiking pole and we wrapped her knee in an ace bandage securing it with duct tape. With that she was able to make it out. We had lunch at Skyline (our high point) and were out at a reasonable hour.

During our backpack we saw very little wildlife (mostly ravens and squirrels) but did see indications that larger lifeforms were there. We saw lots of bear scat. One particular scat was next to a big hole dug out of the ground and the scat had lots of hair in it as if a rabbit or something had been dug up and eaten. We also smelled a rather musky smell that Wilma thought might have been a mountain lion. Needless to say we were all happy that we did not encounter either of these creatures up close. Driving back we saw a couple of Northern Harriers.

My full size photos are here. Below is a slideshow of the same but smaller images.

Mount Kimball Hike

I decided to hike Mount Kimball with the Sierra Club. The problem was getting to Tucson so early. Initially the hike was scheduled to start at 6:30am. That would mean that I would have to leave around 4:30am. That would have been quite a push yet doable. Luckily the hike time was changed to 8:15. There were a few people from Phoenix interested in going. Rebecca volunteered to drive and even offered to pay for gas. I took her up on the ride but I did help out with the gas. No one else from Phoenix wanted to get up early so we went on our own. We left at 6am. Luckily Rebecca also lives in Mesa so I met her at a location not far from my house.

The drive to Tucson was uneventful except for seeing three javalina crossing the road.

We arrived in Tucson early and hit McDonalds to use the facilities. That was a good thing as there were none at the trailhead. At the trailhead we met up with the hike leader (John) and three other hikers (Bill, Bill and Karen). We took two vehicles and went to the start of the hike Finger Rock Trailhead. There we began our long ascent to the top of Mt Kimball. The grade was quite steep all the way up (4500 ft) and exposed but we were blessed with clouds and a bit of rain. I was glad I packed that rain jacket. (The weather underground forecast didn't really show much chance of rain but when I looked at the hourly forecast it said 10% chance in the morning so I packed it. )

On the way up we found out that one of the hikers was a geologist and he gave us a run down on the area. He was also in his 70s and easily completed the hike. I know we all were hoping that we could complete a hike like that in our 70s. Two of the hikers had these neat little lightweight scopes. I think I have found something else to buy for my Nepal trip.

We saw a smattering of wildflowers on the hike and one very small snake. Our pace was a bit slower than I am used to but it allowed me to really see everything and get some good pictures.

The view from the top was fantastic. Although it was a bit windy and chilly up there. I lent my raincoat to one of the other hikers who had gotten wet in the rain.

The way down was very steep and everyone except John took a tumble at one point or another. There was blood here and there but nothing too serious. I do have to say that it seemed to go on and on. Towards the end Rebecca and I had to leave the group behind to get back to the car and drive back. We decided to take a little pee break on the trail so we could hit the road immediately and then noticed two people enjoying the sunset. So we went down a little further and peed and then wouldn't you believe it the same people came walking back down the trail. Luckily we both had our pants back up by this time.

As it was we didn't leave until 6:30ish and I didn't get home until 8:30pm after I stopped to get my sister's mail. The hike was well worth it however.

My iPhone battery didn't last the whole hike so the map is not quite complete but what it got is here. It is best to look at this in "terrain view". My full size photos are here.



Update: Here is a trip report and photos from another of the hikers (Bill). There are a couple of photos of me.

Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim

I was up by 5:30 and on the Bright Angel trail by 6am. It was pretty dark. I came across some trail signs but wasn't able to read them. I wished I had the iPhone flashlight app but I had to make due with turning up the brightness to read the signs. I felt totally disoriented but when I got to the bridge I knew I was in the right place. This bridge has a metal grate across the bottom and I can see why it mules might get spooked. It was kind of scary going over it. I took it easy due to my legs still being sore and it being dark but made really good time to the half way point - Indian Gardens. It was a beautful walk along Bright Angel creek. There were many trees along the creek. I really want to return when the leaves turn because it would transform this from a pretty walk to a spectacular walk.

I began the ascent from Indian Gardens to the Rim. This last section hold the most elevation gain - around 3,000 ft in five miles. I was uncertain how I would go but I continued to make really good time. My muscles were not bothering me on the uphill at all except for the minor dips in the trail.

I saw two large birds with white markings that I think were condors soaring overhead. One seemed to be checking me out. It was a great show.

Later I came across a group with a dog. It seems that everyone had been telling them that it is against the rules to have a dog on the trail and that was annoying them because they were quite rude to the guys in front of me and to me when I told them that I had passed two rangers below. As I left them I worried about how mules react to dogs. When I came across my first mule train, I asked the wrangler/ guide and sure enough mules are afraid of dogs so I let him know about the dog on the trail. I passed two more mule trains and let them know as well.

Several people commented on my shorts but I was generally warm walking uphill with my pack. I did have to put a fleece on for the last section. The last section was really icy. I saw more than one person slip and hit the ground hard. I was so happy to have brought my YakTrax. I had great traction between them and the hiking pole. I tried to warn people at the top to go back and buy the instep crampons that they sell at the Bright Angel lodge for only $10 but they went ahead. I guess they weren't worried about either slipping and hurting themselves or going over the edge.

I made it out of the canyon in less than 5 1/2 hours and felt great. I think I made such good time because I took fewer photos on the way out. The ones I did take are here and in the slide show below. This was an amazing experience.

I also can certainly see why people get in trouble here. Despite it being only February it was quite hot on the S. Kaibab Trail, the Clear Creek Trail and parts of the N. Kaibab Trail. I wouldn't want to be on those trails in the summer heat.

I hope to return in the autumn when the leaves are changing and walk from the North Rim to the South Rim staying the night at Phantom Ranch again.

Phantom Ranch to Ribbon Falls

When got up Friday morning, I realized that one of my dorm mates had gone to sleep at 4pm the day before and slept through until 5am. She then left to hike out. My other thee dorm mates got up to hike out soon afterward. They were trying to off load clothing and food to lighten their packs. In the end they took the clothes but left some snacks which I helped finish off - pretzels and oreos.

I felt pretty sore and stiff. It's true what they say about the hike down being harder on you than the hike up. The good news is that the soreness was in my quads, hams and calves - not my feet - the acupuncture must be working. I only had minor twinges in my feet over the last two days. I took it easy and bought a post card for my nephews. I wrote it and posted it to be carried out by mule. I bet they will think that is pretty funny. I also got myself a Phantom Ranch tshirt.

Soon afterwards I headed out to hike to Ribbon Falls. You can see the photos here or at the end of this post (unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be working at the moment). It was a pretty hike through steep canyons along Bright Angel Creek on the North Kaibab trail. The falls were about 6 miles up on the North Kaibab trail. The falls were really amazing. You could even walk behind them.

When I returned, I had several new room mates in my dorm. Two of them had these cool head lamps that clip on a baseball cap. I really want to get one of those. They appeared to be in better shape after the hike down than the previous days room mates and were planning on hiking to Ribbon Falls the next day so I told them how nice it was.

We got a couple of other room mates later. One asked me to give up my lower bunk because she has epilepsy and was worried about falling off the top bunk. I politely refused but wondered why she didn't worry about falling off one of the cliff face on the way down the South Kaibab trail. The other new room mate discovered a baby scorpion in the shower.

Dinner was much the same with some nice conversation with a couple from Chicago that had hiked into the Canyon annually for the last three years. They had never done any hiking or camping but read up on it and went for it. They were a hoot. They were stopping at Indian Gardens to overnight on their way out and were a bit skeptical of my plan to hike all the way out and drive back to Mesa all in one day. Between this input and my soreness I have to say that I was a tad bit nervous about my plan.

It was another early night in the dorm room. I planned to be up early and leave by 6 am.

South Kaibab to Phantom Ranch

I traveled to Flagstaff on Wed night to spend the night with Kurt and Julie. It was my first time using the gps and I heard the term "recalculating" a number of times as I missed numerous turns. It turns out that it tells you to turn even though it really doesn't want you to. I took the machine at it's command and it had to recalculate until I got the hang of it.

Eventually I made it. The drive was pretty but longer than I expected especially with those "recalculations". The nicest part was going by Lake Mary as the sun was setting. It was great catching up with Kurt and Julie but I tried to hit the sack earlyish (9:30).

I planned to leave by 6am but hit the snooze and actually left around 6:30. I am not sure the gps took me the shortest way but I made it to the Grand Canyon. On the way in I saw a few elk. They crossed the road right in front of me.

It was quite chilly when I arrived. I saw several elk on the way in. I caught the 9am South Kaibab Hiker shuttle which was very full when it picked up. A boy scout troop from Tucson was on it as well as a group from Canada. I tried to wait them out and let them get on the trail ahead of me but to no avail. We got on the trail at exactly the same time. No problem I passed them at their first rest break.

The trail was in great condition. I didn't need the yaktrax I bought and brought. The weather was also great. The colors inside the canyon were lovely. I hope the pictures do it justice.

It was so amazing walking down and hard to describe the sheer size of the colorful rock faces around me as I walked down. It was magical and I hope that my photos can reflect some if this. I felt so awed by the towering rock formations near and far.

Although there were many people on the trail like Milford track, I was generally alone to ponder the beauty and magnitude of it except for a squirrel now and then. One cheeky fella put on a little show for me. I got a few cute photos of him.

On the way down I passed a trail maintenance crew using a jack hammer. Although this was loud and obnoxious it reminded me the work required to build and maintain the trail. I guess the same goes for the mule train carrying the trash out even though I almost got a face full of trash as it passed.

As I walked down the temperature rose steadily and I rapidly stripped off my layers- jacket, fleece, hat, and finally long sleeve shirt.

Eventually I made it down to the Colorado river and passed over the Black Bridge. All mule trains go over the Black Bridge which has wood planking. The other bridge has a grate bottom which scares the mules.

Across the river were 800 year old Indian ruins, the Bright Angel camground and finally Phantom Ranch. It took me 4.5 hours to hike down. I checked into my dorm and ate lunch contemplating what to do next. There are a number of hikes from Phantom Ranch. I wanted to do two of them - Clear Creek and Ribbon Falls. With only one full day down at Phantom Ranch and a ten mile ascent to the South Rim it was a hard choice. So I decided to hike out part of the Clear Creek trail after I finished my late lunch and go to Ribbon Falls on my full day.

The first section of the Clear Creek trail goes up without relent for about a mile but you are paid off with more stunning views of the river - this time from the north and heading east. I walked along the trail for a out another mile or so. Then I returned to it dorm room for a hot shower. By now it had cooled down so that even in a long sleeve shirt I was chilly outside.

I ate dinner with one of the women from my dorm and her husband. The were very nice. I also met a film mker who made a documentary about the first blind man to climb Everest. The food was awesome. I had veggie chili and there was also stew. This was accompained by salad, corn bread, and chocolate cake. I also bought a beer to go along with it. The other women in my dorm went to the earlier meal which was steak. (All meals must be booked in advance)

After dinner I went back to the dorm and discovered my roommates in bed. I decided to type up this blog entry on my iphone and then hit the sack myself.