Saturday, January 26, 2008

Penguins and sharks visit Geraldton

I have been back a little over a week and have been slowly getting things together. I now have home internet which is great. The weather has been warm but not unduly hot so that is really great. It was supposed to be hot but it never got there.

Interesting animal news here in Gero this week. A King Penguin arrived on a beach north of Geraldton. The penguin was way off course - something like 4000km. It is the farthest north that they have seen this kind of penguin. Unfortunately, the penguin died probably killed by a box.

Then a couple of days ago another penguin ( a little Blue this time) also visited Geraldton. This one was watched over set happily on its way to ensure no fox got it.

Then two tiger sharks - one of the most feared sharks in this area - were spotted at the beach closest to my house. As I was walking by the beach yesterday I saw the patrol boat at the beach looking for them.

Today is Australia Day.

I return to work officially on Tuesday.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

NZ to OZ

Well this morning started pretty early - 4:15AM to be exact. It was supposed to start at 4:10 but I set the alarm for pm instead of am. That is why I use more than one alarm. The second alarm was my phone. It woke me up saying something like "It's 4:15 am wake up". That was a bit confusing at that time in the morning.

I packed up and went downstairs for a quick bit of oatmeal before I left. No such luck. The kitchen was closed until 5am. I called the night clerk to check out and she was not too friendly. There was no way she was going to let me in that kitchen early. Oh well - who needs food?

I took the super shuttle to the airport. There I as in for a big shock. I was over the baggage limit. I then realised that the baggage limit was half what it was coming into NZ. I moved a bit of stuff and left behind a bottle wine that I got as a present for my friend Kate. Sorry Kate but they were going to charge me another $80. That would have been a pretty expensive bottle of wine.

The flights were pretty good and I got an aisle seat on each. There was not much layover time at all. I had three flights. On two of them there was an empty seat next to me. Woo Hoo!

Perth is pretty hot today - 95 degrees I think but it is supposed to cool over the next few days. Yeah!

I am now at the Comfort Hostel in Perth and will take the bus to Gero in the am. I should be able to access the Internet at the library if nothing else until I get something set up at home.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Returning to Australia

Today is my last day in NZ. It has been an incredible trip. I have really enjoyed myself. I fly out at 7:30 am tomorrow. I will leave for the airport at 4:45am - a very early morning. I have crazy flight that goes first to Brisbane. There I clear customs and take a flight to Sydney. There I change plans and fly to Perth. A pretty roundabout way to get to Perth if you ask me but the price was better than other alternatives. In Perth I will stay the night at the Comfort Hostel and take the bus to Gero the next morning at 8:30am. I arrive in Gero at 2:30pm.

I feel a little like the Aussie guys who kayaked to NZ but didn't arrange a way back and didn't bring shoes. I have arranged a way back but I realise that I don't have sheets for my bed at home because they are in storage. It will be too hot for my sleeping bag. I will try to borrow some from a friend until I arrange to get my stuff from storage.

A very unlucky event happened to me yesterday. I went to get a snack from my food stored in the common kitchen area. My non-fridge food was not there. I realised that it must have fallen off (or been knocked off) the top of the cupboard and into the free food box. There is was promptly scavanged. I had just gone to the store to buy stuff to eat on the plane. (Cheap flight - no food provided). That was really, really bad luck. However, this morning my cold food had milk spilled on it. As I pulled it out to clean it, I saw most of my food (instant hummus, brunch bars, 2 min noodles and instant soup) in someone else's bag in the fridge. I just took it back. I felt kind of bad. However, I do think that it may have been a little obvious that my food was not being given away. What do you think?

Akaroa to Arthur's Pass

It was sooo hot the day I left Akaroa. I left on the 4:00pm bus and it was a sauna all the way back to Christchurch. It was super hot there too. I was pretty happy to head out to Arthur's Pass the next morning. I think that Haast Pass is certainly prettier than Arthur's Pass from what I saw.

The weather was a bit cloudy and looked like rain so I hit the DOC office in Arthur's Pass. The forecast was fine but it was evident that the weatherman had gotten it wrong. The DOC officer said that I could go up to Avalanche Peak but to take Scott's Track both ways due to the bad weather. Also if it was too windy at the top to skip the last ridgeline as it is very exposed with long drops on each side. The weather was going to deteriorate even more the next day so this was my only opportunity to try and hike one of the best day hikes in NZ.

I headed out and climbed up, up, up. I did eventually make it to the top but there were no real views. I did see quite a few kea. They were the most aggressive that I have seen and I got a few good pictures as well. (Note: I had tried to fix my camera strap with duck tape but at the top realized that the entire strap had gone missing. I did find the strap on the way down. I haven't tried to fix it again yet.)

The rain increased on the way down and I was in constant rain on the way down. The walk down was pretty slippery and definitely unfun. Fortunately, I made it down without any injury.

Since I really had no views, I will have to reserve comment on which day hike is the best in NZ.

Photos are here.

I went back to the backpacker and built a roaring fire. The next day it was pouring rain and my knees were certainly sore so I spent the day reading.

Friday, January 11, 2008

The Banks Peninsula Track

See photos here.

The Track is 35km long in total. The first and fourth days have significant climbs of around 600m each. It explores the Banks Peninsula which is an ancient volcano. Akaroa Harbour is the eroded crater of the volcano. This track is a private track. The nice thing about that was that there was beer and food for sale at most of the "huts". I had a few more equipment difficulties. I have broken both my camera strap (I have not idea how) and my sunglasses (I stepped on them but have duck taped them together)

Night 1
I stayed in a stargazer hut in Onuku. This hut is made of plywood and plexiglass. There is plexiglass over your head so that you can see the stars at night. I loved it. It overlooks the bay and I saw a sweet sunset from it while drinking a beer (which I brought with me for the first night). It was a cloudy night night so no stars unfortunately. I met my fellow walkers. All eleven of the others are traveling together in a group from a university in the US. They are a nice enough bunch.

Day1 Onuku to Flea Bay
The day was a bit overcast to start but that was fine as I had a big climb to start the day. After reaching the summit I walked down to Flea Bay via three waterfalls. At the last one I was really startled by movement in the water. All of a sudden out of the water slithered a big eel. It scared me for a minute. I think it was after the insects flying about in the air. After that I climbed up behind the waterfall which was pretty cool.

I got to the cottage at Flea Bay pretty early. I was walking around checking things out when Shireen (the owner of the property) drove up with a bunch of people for kayaking. I joined the group and we had a good afternoon on the water. A funny thing happened as we were pulling the kayaks out. Shireen found a blue penguin in one of them. When we got out on the water I I saw penguins and seals on the rocks We also went into two caves where we saw seals. One kayak couldn't seem to back paddle or turnaround. It was kind of scary watching them go in the cave. At least they didn't capsize.

When we came back from kayaking, Shireen took us into the garden and showed us a couple of penguin chicks in a nest there. The parents had initially tried to make a nest in Shireen's boots so she kept moving them to a box in the garden. Finally they got the message.

Later that night we went on a penguin tour. Flea Bay has a very big white flippered penguin population. It also also has a few yellow eyed penguins. Shireen and Frances (the property owners) make boxes for the penguins to use as nests. We saw more chicks and some molting adults in boxes on the hill.

Day 2 Flea Bay to Stony Bay
The walk along the coast line was not to taxing but was so beautiful. I saw hector dolphins from the ridge. I also visited two seal colonies on the way to Stony Bay. At the first seal cave there were lots of young seal pups. It was great to see them playing around.

I did an additional walk around the valley at Stony Bay. Part of it was really new and I got into a bit of stinging nettle trying to navigate the track. There was a nice little waterfall on it.

Day 3 Stony Bay to Otanerito Bay
Again a short walk but incredible coastline. I saw blowholes and sea archs. It was a clear but very windy day. The "huts" here were so cute. I stayed in a little one all by myself. The shower house was built around a tree. There was an outdoor bath heated by a wood fire. I would love to visit here again.

Because the day was so short, I went for a hike in the Hinewai Reserve. I attempted to go up to the Stones. Unfortunately, the trail was really overgrown. I was walking in plant life up to my shoulders. The trail was very hard to determine. Just short of the summit I decided to abort. I walked down and then up to a waterfall at Murderer's Gully and then down to Fantail falls. I certainly got some exercise in this little adventure. At Fantail falls I found a jacket and water bottle. As it was a dead end I figured that one of the university kids had left it. It turns out that one of them decided to climb up the side of the falls and was a bit worried when he got back and his stuff wasn't there. He was pretty happy when I turned up with it back at the hut.

Day 4 Otanerito Bay to Akaroa
Last day - from sea level up and over the Purple Peak saddle (509m) and back to Akaroa. I did a side hike up to the top of Stony Bay Peak (806m). There were pretty good views up there. I just couldn't pass it up.

Monday, January 7, 2008

Mt Cook to Akaroa

I spent a couple of days in Christchurch on my way to Akaroa. After spending so much time in smaller places it was kind of a shock to be in a city. I didn't do much just a bit of shopping. I am still looking for the perfect present for my sister for her birthday. I came across a few things that I like and will get one of them when I return to Christchurch.

I took a shuttle out to Akaroa on Sunday. The weather was good so I did a short hike in the surrounding hillsides.

I went to the Cinema Cafe and saw Sweet Land in the evening. It was a very small cinema and you could buy food and drinks there. I had a beer while I watched the movie.

Today I start the Banks Peninsula Track. I get picked up at 5:45PM to be taken to the first night's accomodation. Tomorrow is the first day of walking. I was go for a hike today but it is raining - better today than tomorrow is all I can say. The temperature today is supposed to be a bit warm but a southerly wind is coming in later today which will cool it off for my first day of walking tomorrow.

I have put a few photos here.

I read in the paper today that a dead tramper (hiker) was found in Mt Cook National Park. It makes me glad that I decided to turn back at Sealy Tarns that day and try for Mueller Hut the next day. Despite the fact that my legs, knees and hips were feeling a bit sore after that.

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Mueller Hut HIke Take 2 (Jan 4)

After much consideration I decided to try to hike up to Mueller Hut AGAIN if the weather was good despite the fact that it would be a push for me to make my bus out of Mt Cook.

I woke and it was completely clear. I put my bags in storage and headed out to the trailhead. As I neared the trailhead low clouds began to develop in the valley. I began climbing. It was nice to climb in the early morning. It was very peaceful and a bit cooler. The clouds began to increase and I was worried that I would have no views but a guy coming down from the hut said that the views from above were spectacular despite the clouds because the hut is above the clouds.

It was a hard hike up - short and steep (elevation gain over 1000m). On the way up I was treated to a show by a couple of kea. They actually landed right by the trail and then took off and flew above my head.

The trail was very steep (as I discovered yesterday) and past Sealy Tarns it was generally scrambling over boulders walking from pole to pole. I also had to walk up a slope of scree (very nasty) and cross a small snow field (no biggie). After a couple hours of hard hiking I emerged above the clouds with some spectacular views and all the pain faded away [It must be like having a baby - painful but you forget it once you see the beauty at the end of it]. You could hear the glaciers and snow cracking. I saw a few avalanches. It truly was awesome.

I was kind of congratulating myself on completing what I consider a pretty tough hike when I saw that a four year old girl hiked up yesterday and was hiking down today. I guess I am not so tough. (Apparently in the hut talk the evening before they noted that the girl was the youngest to hike up to Mueller Hut. My question would be at what age will she attempt Everest?).

It is a good thing that I am at the end of my trip. My boots have holes in them (they are only about 2 months old). I cut myself on the first hike up to Sealy Tarns on an agave-type plant and bled all over my hiking shorts because I was more concerned about the wind than the pain in my hand. On my way down from Mueller Hut I ripped the same pair of hiking shorts - luckily it was a small rip in the pocket.

Here are a few more photos.

I am now in Christchurch and am off to Akaroa tomorrow at 9am to do the Banks Peninsula Track on Jan 7.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Queenstown to Mt Cook

I was happy to leave Queenstown. It was an overcrowded mess for New Year's Eve. New Year's Day was a beautiful clear day. The bus driver stopped and let us take pictures as we passed the Lake Pukaki Lookout of Mt Cook.

Since I couldn't get into Mt Cook until Jan 2, I spent the night in a town called Tekapo named after the nearby lake - Lake Tekapo. The lake has a beautiful blue cool from the silt of the glacier. I had a big day of laundry and then I walked up to the top of Mt John where there is an observatory. Lake Tekapo apparently has very clear skies.

The backpacker I stayed at was very nice. I ended up sharing a twin room with another girl due to a booking error. That was really nice.

The bus trip to Mt Cook the next day was more like a tour. The driver owns the company (Mt Cook Connections) and he told me all about the area on the way up to Mt Cook. We also stopped for a number of photo opportunities. It was great.

I got to Mt Cook around and headed out to hike to Hooker Lake. It was a clear day and I had some beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

On the way home I stopped at the Mountaineer Bar that had a sign up that said "Happy Hours Daily". I asked what time Happy Hour started. The answer was that there would be no happy hours because it was a public holiday (Jan 2 - a big holiday around the world - SARCASM). Being a smart ass I said "So the sign is actually a lie". That didn't go over very well.

The next day I planned to hike up to Mueller Hut. However, the weather wasn't very good when I got up. The wind was howling and it was raining. The weather forecast said that it would ease during the day so I go a 24 hour wireless account. This stopped working and the YHA that I was staying at couldn't contact anyone. It looked as though it was going to be a waste of money. In the meantime, the weather started looking as though it might improve. I geared up to go out. As I went out it started raining. I retreated and read my book for awhile.

It looked more promising later (12:30) so I went out. The hike I wanted to do takes approx 8 hours. I decided that I would monitor conditions. If they weren't favorable I would turn back. I hiked up to Sealy Tarn. It was a steep rocky hike up the side of the mountain. A cloud hung over the area that I knew that I was hiking to. The wind was so strong at times I worried about being blown off the mountain. I did have good views of Mueller Glacier and the glacier on Mt Sefton.

At Sealy Tarn I had to decide if I would go on to Mueller Hut. It started raining as I was trying to make my decision. I had plenty of energy to go up but I didn't want to come down climbing over slippery rocks in the rain. Larry, Lori and Dustin and I had a conversation on the Kepler Track about bad decisions leading to bad situations. I decided that Muelller Hut would keep. I could try the next day or next year if I come back here with my family. It is a truly spectacular area.

I know that I made the right decision because on the way down it continued to rain. The cloud stayed over the mountain even though other areas of the area were clear. I was almost blown over when I got to the bottom of the hill.

I did go to happy hours on this non-holiday day. It was lucky because they have the same wireless service so I was able to connect there with the same account that I had set up at the YHA so no need to pursue a refund. Yeah!!!!

On the way back to the YHA I saw a family of paradise ducks. The little baby ducks were so CUTE.

I talked to a couple of people at the YHA and they said that the weather at the Tasman Glacier was great. I may head out there in the AM to hike around Blue Lakes and up to Ball Hut.

Check out the photos here.

I can't believe that I am leaving in less than two weeks. SO SAD !!!

I am off to Christchurch next and then on to Akaroa soon after.