Saturday, August 15, 2009

Siyeh Pass - Awesome, Wet and Cold

Check out the photos here

I woke up today and didn't want a repeat of yesterday - sitting around all day because of bad weather. I decided I would hike or leave. After a quick look at the weather I decided I could probably get a hike in before it started raining again. (Remind me never to take a job as a meteorologist)

I drove up to St Mary checking out the clouds as I went. They did look threatening but I figured I could hike fast and beat them. When I got to the trailhead, the ranger led hike was grouping up. I thought I would pass them on the trail but I never did. Later I found out that they canceled the hike.

The hike up started along Siyeh Creek which was pretty and then went through forest. There were lots of flowers. Later it came out in a valley with views of the mountains around Logan Pass. I also passed by a glacier. There were several lakes at the base of Siyeh Mountain. They were different colors which I find odd. I went up and up and finally reached the pass. There I had some great views down three different valleys - the one I came through, one that angled north east and the one that I would walk out in. There was also a huge glacier. It was on the Going to the Sun Mountain (I think). This was certainly one of the best views I had of a glacier in the park until it was obscured by cloud. At this point I probably should have hightailed it out but I took my time taking photos of the valleys, glacier and sheep.

It soon started to rain accompanied by thunder and lightening. The rain was unrelenting and by the time I exited the trail I was very, very wet and cold. Unfortunately, the shuttle didn't come for quite a long time making things worse. Finally back in my car I cranked up the heat. My feet must have been really cold because they hurt as they warmed up.

On the way back to East Glacier I found new snow on the road.

I am going to head out in the morning. I am sad to leave Glacier National Park. I have had such a good time here and there are many more things I would like to do but I have a feeling that it is time to move on. I am glad that I got to do Siyeh Pass even though it was a bit uncomfortable.

Check out the photos here

Friday, August 14, 2009

Almost Beared Out AGAIN

From Granite - Flattop Backpack


Granite Park - Flattop Backpack Photos

I decided to do one last backpack before leaving the lovely Glacier. The plan was to head out the Highline Trail from Logan Pass to Granite Park and the next day to continue on the Highline Trail to Fifty Mountain then make a U turn and head to Flattop for the night and exit the following day at the Loop on the Going to the Sun Road.

My friend, Aaron, hiked the first seven miles with me to Granite Chalet. The Highline Trail is awesome with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and Lake McDonald. The skies looked very threatening but no rain came. About a mile or two in we had a grizzly encounter.

There were seven people stopped on the trail in front of us. There was a grizzly sow and two cubs near the trail. We could see one of the cubs playing in a tree. We decided to try and pass them on the trail. Those of us with bear spray pulled it and removed the safety. As we got a bit closer the bears moved up on the trail and we retreated. They (the bears) were not aggressive but they were too close for comfort. Not for a couple of guys -- they didn't retreat far. Instead they took photos. The grizzly was big and beautiful. The cubs were small and black instead of brown with white facial marking. They were sooo cute. However, I focused on safety versus photos and didn't get any photos. For those of you on Facebook Aaron posted a photo of the grizzly and cubs on my profile.

This watching the bear and retreating went on for a few repetitions. What we needed to do was get off the trail and let the bear go by. However, more and more people were piling up and everyone had a different opinion of what to do. I climbed up to let the bear go by but others did not. This put me in a very bad position as the bear might see the people on the trail and come my way to avoid them so I was forced to return to the trail. We retreated further to the point the trail became quite narrow on the edge of a very steep cliff leaving no maneuvering room. There was no way that I was going to walk along that with a bear. By this time the group was even larger. It was chaos. The photo guys had not retreated as far and had gone off the trail where I wanted to. The bear went right by them like I said it would. However, it must have seen us and was now above us. We decided the best option was to move forward on the trail. It was a certainly a scary moment but we got by without incident. The bear didn't seem to care much about us one way or the other.

Farther up the trail we came across the guys who were ahead of us. One had accidently discharged his bear spray and was trying to clean it out of his eyes. It also got on his water bottle so he couldn't drink out of it.

The rest of the hike to Granite Park was uneventful. We did see some male big horn sheep. Once at Granite Park I set up my tent and had lunch with Aaron. He then headed down to the Loop as he wasn't spending the evening. I headed up to Swiftcurrent Lookout at the top of Swiftcurrent Mountian. It was about five miles round trip but very uphill and very, very windy. The payoff was incredible. The views at the top were fantastic. There were views of the many lakes of the Many Glacier area - Bullhead Lake, Fishercap Lake, Sherburne Lake and some that I don't know the names of. There were also views of Swiftcurrent Glacier. Because the top of the mountain was bald, it offered 360 degree views of all the surrounding mountains. This was certainly one of the best hikes that I have done in Glacier.

It was so windy on the way down that I was blown backwards a few times but I made it down safely. Although it was really, really windy, my tent was sheltered in the trees. The toilet at Granite Park was interesting. It had no flies because if its unique construction.

The next morning I headed out for a very, very long day. I walked the Highline Trail north of the Granite Park. It was a clear day with phenomenal views. The moon was still out as well which was pretty cool. The wildflowers flourished along the trail. I walked twelve miles to the Fifty Mountain area and took a long break there. Then I headed back along the Flattop Trail. This walk was through burned forest. It offered great views of where I had previously walked on the Highline Trail. For some reason I thought this would be all downhill. I was wrong. The last six miles seemed to go on forever. Also there was a conspicuous lack of water. I began to worry that there would be no water at the campground. Finally I got to the campground and found that there was water. I was pretty happy because I had decided to walk another five miles out if there was no water.

The next morning I walked six and a half miles out to the Loop shuttle stop. There were some pretty creeks along the way and lots of raspberries. I at them along the way slowing me down. I also noticed huge piles of bear scat with berries in it. I began calling out regularly to ensure that I didn't surprise any bears along the way. Luckily, I didn't see anymore bears. It began to rain lightly on my way out. I made it up to the shuttle stop and got a shuttle to the top. While in the shuttle is started pouring so I guess I got out just in time. Rising early and getting going often has many advantages.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Sorry No Posts for awhile

Sorry that there haven't been any recent posts. Between having friends in town and socialising lots and my computer refusing to connect to the wireless at Brownies, I was not able to get much done.

Here are a few things I missed posting about.

Triple Divide Day Hike (17 miles): I hiked from the Cutbank trailhead up to the Triple Divide Pass and then down to Medicine Grizzly lake with a few people who work at the Browning hospital. It was a pretty great day. (Click on the link to see the photos)

Painted Tipi (16 miles or so): I hiked up to Two Medicine Pass and then out a ridge to Painted Tipi Peak with Jane (from Sierra Vista) and a few of her friends from the East Glacier area. It was a great day. We had good views and it was awesome standing at the top of Painted Tipi. We also saw a herd of female big horn sheep on the way up.



Swiftcurrent Lookout Take 1 (16 miles or so): This was a very interesting hike in that I was almost "beared out" at the beginning when a bear heading the same way as I showed no concern that I was on the trail. I couldn't get by it. I was walking along with bear spray in one hand and a camera in the other. It finally moved off (SLOWLY) when a group of ten more people came on the trail. I had some great views of the Swiftcurrent Glacier on the way up. The hike was beautiful but by the time I got to Swiftcurrent Pass the mountain top was clouded in. I hike up to the Lookout anyway. It was a cold hike into the cloud but kind of cool in its own way. There were, of course, no views from the top. I had driven a group of Chinese girls out to hike Grinnell Glacier on a ranger led hike. When I got to the bottom, I found out that they no longer do that hike but the girls were okay. They did the hike on their own and had a fabulous time.

Avalanche Lake and Hidden Lake (8 miles)
The weather did not look good today. I ended up cancelling my hike (Siyeh Pass) and taking the Chinese girls to Avalanche Lake. It was good to hike it again when it wasn't raining. I finished the hike early and read my book while waiting for the Chinese girls. In the meantime, my friends from SLC (Matt, Yun and Arwyn) showed up and I had a chat with them before they headed up the same trail. When the Chinese girls finished I decided to try Logan Pass. Of course, there was no parking but at least it wasn't raining. I dropped the girls off to do Hidden Lake and drove down the road to the nearest pull out. I was waiting for parking there when a bunch of goats showed up. Then it was chaos as everyone pulled in to take photos of them. I was about to despair about getting a parking place when a flag girl for the construction held up the traffic so I could get the next parking space. Then I hoofed it up the road and on to the trail. I saw a deer eating some of the millions of wildflowers and soon caught up with the Chinese girls. It was good but short day.

Cobalt Lake
(10 miles)
Watching the backcountry report I saw that one of the routes that I wanted to backpack was available so I got up early and went to Two Medicine Ranger station and got permits for two nights backcountry. Since I was there I hiked out to Cobalt Lake. There were so many ripe berries on the trail - huckleberries, service berries and whortle berries. On the way back I heard a noise and saw a moose. I watched it for quite awhile eating various plants and sucking up water. Pretty cool.





Saturday, August 1, 2009

The Goat ate my flip flops

I just finished a fantastic backpack. Check out the photos here or view the slide show at the bottom of the blog post.

I left early Wednesday morning from Jackson Glacier Overlook. After returning to my car to retrieve a forgotten hiking pole (five minutes down the trail), I was off. The weather started out perfectly but as I neared Jackson Glacier it clouded up so I wasn't able to see it well. (Just an excuse to return as far as I am concerned)

As I approached Gunsight Lake I was disappointed to see the mountain covered by clouds. However, slowly it cleared. While having a snack and taking photos I met a couple of guys from Seattle. I walked over Gunsight Pass with them. It was very cloudy and there weren't views from the top. It also started raining but lucky for us there is a shelter at the top and we took a break there waiting for the storm to clear. A little while later the rain stopped but the clouds remained. We descended from the pass to Lake Ellen Wilson campground. The guys headed on from there and I set up camp. The campground was on the edge of the lake and surrounded by huge boulders. The cooking area was below a huge angled boulder. There were both goats and deer at the site. It was a very nice place to camp.

The next day I went over another pass to Sperry Chalet. It was a comparatively short day (3 miles). I then walked up the Sperry Glacier Trail to the bottom of Sperry Glacier. After going up, up, up, I came to the Comeau Pass which is a staircase blasted into rock. It was crazy. Overall the hike was fantastic - lots of waterfalls, pika, goats, snow, mountains, glaciers. It certainly was one of the best that I have done.

On the way back to the Chalet I saw a goat with two kids. This was kind of unusual because all the rest seemed to have one kid. The goat family was walking right down the trail. When they got to a trail crew working, the mother went off to the right and the kids went left. Then they started bleating for their mother. It was so funny. I talked a bit to the trail crew and they told me they had seen a female grizzly with two cubs on the trail in the morning. It came face to face with a goat. There was a confrontation and then the goat took off up the hill. The grizzly followed but was too slow. What an amazing thing to have seen!

Back at the campground I found that my flip flops had become a snack for the goats. They must not have liked them too much as they are still wearable. Below is a photo showing their nibbling on one shoe.

From Gunsight Sperry Backpack


Since for me backpacks are synonymous with rain, it rained cats and dogs during the night. I stayed dry but had to pack out my very wet tent. The trail was wide so I wasn't drenched by water off the vegetation on the way out. However, I was very nervous coming down a I found that I was following very recent bear tracks. I called out often and didn't encounter the bear which was good. The photo below compares the bear tracks to my foot.

From Gunsight Sperry Backpack










Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Two Medicine Pass revisited

I got up very early and set out for the ranger office to get some more backcountry camping permits. I ended up driving in following the ranger in to the park. This time I got out of my car and waited by the door in the chilly morning. I ended up getting permits to go over Gunsight Pass and go to Lake Ellen Wilson. It will be a hard first day and a very light second day.

After that I headed up to Two Medicine Pass. I hiked it with Jane, Becky and Al a couple weeks ago but we were socked in at the top and had absolutely no visibility. This morning the weather forecast was 70% chance of precipitation so I was racing the clock on the weather. The forest was ablaze with flowers including monkey flower.

From Two Medicine Pass



I kept up a steady pace to the top and beat the rain. There were some awesome views up there. I had hoped to walk the ridge to Painted Tipi peak. However, between the forecast of 45 mph winds and likely rain and being by myself I decided to put that off. It was still a great hike. I watched the rain come in and decided to make tracks out. I got some rain on the way down but the bigger issue was the water from the vegetation soaking my shoes. They are drying now. Hopefully to be good by the morning for my trip up Gunsight pass.

You can check out a map of the trip here

My photos are here or you can see the slideshow below.


Monday, July 27, 2009

Belly River Backpack

I went to the ranger office early one morning to get permits for a backpacking trip. I arrived 10 minutes before opening and no one else was there. I parked in front of the office waiting for it to open - thinking I was first in line. WRONG -- just as the office opened a guy walked in right in front of me. I sat there in disbelief. Later when I didn't get the permits that I wanted I was wondering if I should have said something but I had a great backpack so it must have been fate.

From Belly River Backpack


I left from the Chief Mountain trail head. It is just 500ft from the Canadian border and is often patrolled by mounted border patrols and sometimes border patrol on foot. I didn't see any of them but the ranger said that they often dress up in camouflage and scare hikers.

I headed down from the trail head past the Belly River Ranger station and up Cosley Lake cutoff. I could see the Stoney Mountain peaks in the distance as I traveled. I passed by the Gros Ventre Falls and then came to Crosley Lake. This lake is so beautiful. I would love to camp by it sometime.

Awhile after I left the lake I heard a crack of an animal walking on sticks. I thought it was a deer or a moose but I made noise anyway in case it was a bear. I rounded the corner, continued to hear the animal and looked over to see that it was a bear. I think it was a black bear cub. It didn't seem at all concerned about me. It didn't even look in my direction even though it had to know that I was there. I didn't even take a photo. I walked on "bearly" pausing giving it all the space it needed.

I went on to my campsite on Glenns Lake. It was about a 10 mile backpack to here. The deer in this area are quite forward. They want any sweat soaked items for the salt. I was sure to put away anything like that but I heard a story about one deer that went after hiking poles attached to a tent and almost pulled the tent down.

I went up to Mokowanis Lake after I set up camp. It was a very pretty lake with some spectacular falls behind it. I tried to go to the falls. There is not an established trail to the falls and the "social trail" was so overgrown that I worried that if I twisted an ankle or something like that nobody would find me and I had to make due with seeing them from afar. I did get a good close up view of the Stoney Mountain Peaks. I returned to camp, ate dinner and went to bed.

Around midnight a mega storm came through with massive thunder, lightening and torrential rain. The thunder seemed to go on forever as it echoed off the surrounding mountains. My little tent held up okay. The storm seemed to let up around 7am but then another storm of the same magnitude came through pinning me in the tent until 10am. I had hoped to go up to Stoney Indian Pass but knew that I wouldn't make it with a late start - not to mention the need to dry out my tent which was dry on the inside but very wet on the outside. Instead I returned to Cosley Lake and dried out my shoes and tent. Afterwards I backpacked down to my campsite at Gable Creek.

The next morning I was up early and headed out to Elizabeth Lake where I was camping for the night. I went by the beautiful Dawn Mist Falls on the way. They are so powerful that they kick up heaps of mist. It was a short day and I got there before most people moved on. I meet a couple of folks who work in the Park. They gave me lots of info about the park. It was great. I walked half way up the Ptarmigan trail and was rewarded with views of Lakes Helen and Elizabeth. There were also views of many glaciers and peaks - including the Old Sun Glacier. As if that wasn't enough I saw a Bald Eagle spiraling up the updrafts and Trumpter Swans on Lake Elizabeth.

From Belly River Backpack


From there I walked back down to Elizabeth Lake and out to Helen Lake. The walk along Elizabeth lake was nice. It actually went along the lake shore unlike many other trails. The meadows were filled with wild flowers. Another day in paradise here in Glacier National Park.

That night there was another lightening storm which lit up my tent. Although the rain was not as bad as the previous storm it was enough to make a mess of the trails My rain pants, shoes, socks and feet were soaked in under an hour. I guess waterproof doesn't cover Montana wet trails and vegetation. I slipped and slided my way out of the Belly River and returned to East Glacier to clean and dry my gear and myself.

Check out the full size photos here or view the slide show below

Dawson Pitamaken Loop

This is a long loop to start with - 18 miles or so - going up one pass, walking a ridge to another pass and descending through that pass. However, for us it was extra long because one of the trails was closed and we had to detour. The North Shore trail was closed because of a dead carcass and bear activity. Instead we took the South Shore trail adding an extra couple of miles.

The day started out spectacularly when I saw a moose on the side of the road on the drive into Two Medicine. Then on the trail we saw a grouse with its chicks. The South shore trail wasn't too spectacular except for some pretty views of the lake. From the end of the lake we headed up past No Name lake to Dawson pass. Once at the top we had views views of Two Medicine lake and No Name Lake as well as the beautiful mountains in the Coal Creek Nyack area.

From Dawson Pitamaken Loop



We saw several goats along the ridge. They looked very different from the white coated ones that we had seen earlier. I am not sure if they were a different kind or if they had already lost their winter coat.

We took a break at the Pitamaken overlook where I spotted a small animal with big, big ears. It was a pika. I should have snapped a quick picture but I was so excited that I called everyone's attention to it. It didn't like the attention and retreated to its rocky home.

From there we walked to Pitamaken pass and where we had spectacular views of Pitamaken lake, Oldman Lake and another lake that doesn't seem to have a name.

At the end of the twenty miles I was pretty done in but it was a GREAT hike with spectacular views but don't I say that everytime?

Full size photos here or check out the slide show below

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Cracker Lake

We went out to Cracker Lake today. It was my second trip. The first was the fateful trip with the very friendly moose. Today we had a very friendly moose and marmot.

From Cracker Lake and its Animals


From Cracker Lake and its Animals


See the rest of my photos here (full size) or in the slide show below.

Swiftcurrent Pass to Granite Chalet

A big day today - up and over Swiftcurrent Pass to Granite Chalet. This is a picture of what we are going over.

From Swiftcurrent Pass


It was a great day. There was just a bit of wind which helped keep us cool in the really sunny bits. The trail out passed by a couple of lakes and got a view of all the lakes at once. It was really nice. I was glad to go to Granite Chalet a second time because we had fantastic views. I was able to get photos of mountains that had been clouded in and some fantastic photos of the chalet from above.

See full size photos here or view the slideshow below.

Grinnell Glacier Hike

When hiking the Highline Trail I did a spur trail called the Grinnell Overlook. It climbs to a ridge that overlooks the Grinnell Glacier. The top of the photo below is where we hiked to last week.

From Grinnell Glacier



Today we hiked up to the bottom of the Glacier from the other side and I took the above photo.

The Grinnell Glacier was featured in the movie - the Inconvenient Truth. It is rapidly disappearing. In fact, all the glaciers of Glacier National Park will be gone in something like twelve years. It is quite sad.

However, this hike was very beautiful. You can see the full size photos here or view the small version slideshow below.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel

I met up with my new AZ hiking friends for a hike to Iceberg Lake, Ptarmigan Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel. On the way up to Iceberg lake we saw a grizzly in the distance. We felt lucky and walked on almost walking into a light colored black bear. We backed off and it went its way and we went ours up to Iceberg Lake.

From Ptarmigan Tunnel


We spotted a ptarmigan (type of bird) on the way but no other wildlife on our way out. The trail was surrounded by wildflowers and was very beautiful. Iceberg lake had many more icebergs in it this visit. We had it to ourselves for our visit which was really nice.

We then headed up the steeper trail to Ptarmigan lake and Ptarmigan tunnel. The tunnel was blasted through the hillside to create a pass for horses. It was a hot walk up but very pretty. The biggest problem was the mosquitoes which tried to eat us alive at the lake. We made a quick dash past there.

On the way back we cooled off at a small waterfall. The water was icy cold but felt great. After we felt refreshed we headed down the trail where we met up with an old friend - the bear we saw on the way up. We back tracked up the trail but the bear just kept walking up the trail. It is much easier walking than through the woods for them.

From Ptarmigan Tunnel


Soon another group of hikers came down. We kind of got off to the side and the bear not liking the number of people there went off into the woods. As we continued down the trail we found out that the bear had walked right by a group of people checking out Ptarmigan Falls. They didn't have much room at all to move out of its way.

At the bottom we treated ourselves to some huckleberry frozen yogurt. Yum!

I am heading up to Many Glacier for a couple days to camp and hike with some of my AZ hiking friends. There is no cell or internet service there.

Photos here


Medicine Grizzly Lake

I decided to follow up on some errands first thing. For example, I found out that I passed my AZ Biology teaching exam. Yeah!!! Then I headed up for an easier hike. I went out to Medicine Grizzly Lake - 12 miles but only 500 ft elevation gain.

From Medicine Grizzly


It was a very pretty hike initially along a creek and then through flower filled meadows to a lake at the bottom of a bowl of cliffs with waterfalls streaming down them. I met a group of guys mapping the lake. However, their solar panel failed so they were mostly kayaking and fishing while batteries were obtained.

See more photos here or in the slide show below.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Highline Trail

Yesterday I planned to hike to Cobalt lake and possibly up to Two Medicine Pass. In the parking lot I met three people from Sierra Vista. They invited me to hike with them and it turned out that we were very compatible hikers in terms of speed, etc. We hiked out to Cobalt lake and then decided to head up to Two Medicine Pass. Well, the clouds closed in and we saw alot of clouds and not much else but it was a good day all around. This is a picture of us at Two Medicine Pass.

From Highline Trail


Afterwards I had a Sam Adams Light and some chips with my new hiking friends and we decided to hike the Highline Trail together. In the meantime a friend from an earlier hike turned up and decided to hike with us as well so we were very grizzly safe with five people in our party.

The Highline trail goes from Logan Pass to Granite Chalet. It is 7.6 miles with alot of up and down. We also went up to Grinnell Glacier Overlook. I am not sure how much elevation gain it was but it was very steep.
At the top we saw Salamander glacier and Grinnell glacier. We also had views of Grinnell lake, Lake Josephine and Lake Sherburne. We took a break and a few photos. Then we hiked up above the overlook and got even better views.

From Highline Trail


Check out the best of my full size photos here or view the slide show below




Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Trip to Going to Sun Road

From Going to the Sun Road
I took three nice people from the hostel to the Going to the Sun Road. My initial idea was that they would take the shuttle and go wherever they want. However, in the end we all went up to Logan Pass and hiked Hidden Lake. Two of us hiked all the way down to the lake. The other two went to the overlook. It was great. There were lots of goats and marmots and even a deer. The lake was really beautiful. We hiked past the lake to some falls below it. At the end of the hike we all met up and went for another hike to St Mary falls and Virginia falls. It was really nice.

Check out the rest of the photos here or in the mini slide show below.

Goat Haunt Backpack

As I walked back into my campsite at Akamina (2 miles) it started pouring rain. By the time that I reached the campsite I was pretty wet but the rain had stopped. I decided to check out Forum Falls and Forum Lake to dry my pants and jacket out before I settled down. I stopped in and saw the ranger on the way. I let him know that I paid for two nights in US dollars. He hadn't even realized that I hadn't paid the evening before. Akamina is comparatively cheap - $5 per night. It is actually in a British Columbia provincial park bordering Waterton National Park. They provide fire wood and a place to store your food. It was a great little place.

It was quite cold that night and the next morning. My fingers were numb by the time I finished packing up. I felt warmer after the two mile walk back to my car. I then drove to a picnic area and sorted my gear for an overnight backpack to Goat Haunt. Deer were all over Waterton townsite - even mothers and fawns and they showed no real fear of humans. There were signs about keeping your dogs away because apparently the deer have killed a few curious dogs while trying to protect their fawns.

The hike out to Goat Haunt turned out to be over nine miles. For some reason I thought it was supposed to be much less. It was pretty with views of Waterton Lake along the way. It was interesting to cross the border. There were two boundary markers with different dates. It would have been interesting to know a little more about that. At one point I came across alot of fur on the trail. There was also a skull. It was an obvious kill of a bear or cougar. I was a little nervous after that as the trail was overgrown. I was calling out quite often to let the big carnivores know that I was coming.

From Goat Haunt Backpack


At Goat Haunt I had to go through customs as it was in the USA. This was only showing my passport. I dried out my gear for an hour or so and then headed out to check out Olson Mountain, Olson Creek and Lake Janet. I was tired but it was a beautiful walk. There were lots of oddly shaped mountains. I would really like to explore that area more sometime in the future. On the way back to camp I went up a trail to Rainbow Falls. This was totally uninspiring. However there was a muddy area on the way were a deer was sucking at the mud. It turns out that they get minerals of some kind from this area.

The next morning I headed back to Waterton. It was a still beautiful morning and I got some great photos of mountains reflected in the lake. There was no immigration process here. The ranger was really nice and made sure I knew that there was a Mt Olson and Olson drainage.

From Goat Haunt Backpack


I was calling out again on the way back but at one point I rounded a turn and saw a huge brown rump. My heart stopped but I soon realised that it was a moose. This wasn't too bad but they can be dangerous too. I pondered what to do. I called out and made noise but it kind of hung out on the trail for a while. Eventually it moved off and I edged down the trail. No problems.

After I finished walking back to Waterton I drove down to East Glacier. The Chief Mountain Hwy was fantastic. I really hope I can check out the Belly River region that is along there.

Full size photos here or see slideshow below.

Friday, July 10, 2009

Waterton Lake National Park (Akamina and Lineham)

Last night I camped at Akamina which is actually a park in British Columbia. I hiked in 2 miles from the Waterton trail head. A funny thing on the way to the campground. I met a couple from Perth. The girl worked in Mullewa last year about an hour away from me. It is a small world.

I was the only one at the campground that I saw. My gear all worked well and it rained so it was a good test. The down side was that I didn't have the cash to pay for the campsite. I had to leave an IOU.

In the morning I hiked out and hiked the Lineham Ridge hike. It was 17.2 km in length and gained 950m in elevation so it wasn't a walk in the park. It started off great when a deer walked right by me as I organised my stuff. The trail was surrounded by wildflowers which helped ease the climb. On the way up I stopped at Lower Rowe lake. It was pretty. I saw three marmots peaking their heads out below a rock. I can't believe it but I got their picture.

From Lineham Ridge Trail


I was extra bear cautious calling out often. I think this scared a group of big horn sheep because I didn't see them on my way out but when I looked back I saw them. I walked back down hill to get a photo. The hike went up, up, up past the tree line through snow and scree but it was worth it. The view from the top was super.

In the morning I am backpacking out to Goat Haunt in the USA (passport needed) and checking out Olson Creek.

View photos here or watch the slideshow below


Thursday, July 9, 2009

Eiffel Lake

I was up early checking out the weather to determine the best course of action. I found that it was very foggy but I could see blue sky above me. I decided to head out and hike to Eiffel lake. I drove to the trailhead at Moraine Lake. The lake was a gorgeous color.
From Eiffel Lake


I headed up the trail after taking a few photos of the lake. It was up a series of switchbacks. At the top of the switchbacks I was disappointed that I didn't have a good view of the lake but the view of the Faye Glacier was great. Also the jagged snowy peaks were beautiful. It was quite overcast. However as I approached Eiffel Lake blue sky opened up overhead. I was so lucky. I also saw more of the marmots on the way. On the way down, it started snowing a little. That was quite funny. Especially when I bumped into a couple of hikers with bare butts on the trail as they changed pants. It was really quite a busy trail for that.

At the bottom I did another walk along the lakeside to try and get a nice photo of Moraine Lake. It was such a beautiful color. The only downside was the helicopter. They were upgrading one of the trails and it was flying back and forth with supplies.

Icefields Parkway

I woke to a rainy and very cloudy day. I had hoped to do several hikes as I headed south on the Icefields parkway but the weather put that in doubt. As I drove through the deep glacial valleys much of the scenery was obscured by cloud. Needless to say I as a little sad as I hadn't spent much time taking photos on the way up. I stopped and checked out the Athabasca Falls which were pretty impressive and I saw a coyote right on the road.

From Icefield Parkway


Luckily, the Columbia Icefields were not covered by cloud. I took a few photos, spoke to the information desk and headed out to hike to Wilcox Pass. It was a nice hike. The views of the glacier were good but the cloud was closing in. As I approached what I believe was the end of the trail the drizzle of rain turned into a gush. I also heard a loud crack which was either a big avalanche or thunder. I took this as a sign to head back. On the way back I spotted some big horned sheep on the hillside. They were too far away for a photo but I could check them out with my scope. There were also lots of pretty wildflowers on the way. On the way down it stopped raining and I started questioning my decision to turn around. As I got to my car it started pouring down so it turns out that I did make the right decision. I drove in the rain for quite awhile. I had to cancel my plans to hike in various other areas. On the upside, I spotted a "bear jam" - a bunch of cars pulled over to check out a bear. It was a black bear walking parallel to the road. It was pretty cool.

Check out the rest of the full size photos here or view the mini slide show below.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Jasper Hikes

I woke early and posted photos and blog write ups. I checked out the trail status and discovered that one of the trails that I was going to hike with Bev and Steve was closed. I decided to go to the Malgine area instead. I popped by Bev and Steve's chalet and let them know that I would be going it on my own.

I headed off to the Malgine area and was dismayed by the very, very slow speed limit - 60 km/h. That is less than 40 mph. On the upside I saw a caribou.

From Hikes from Jasper


The views of Medicine and Malgine lake were nice along the way. I hiked the Bald hill trail, the Moose Loop Trail, Mona Lake and Malgine Canyon. It was not as long as it sounds. I saw some very interesting marmots along the trail. Here is a picture of one that kept sticking his head out at me.

From Hikes from Jasper


I had dinner with Bev and Steve who are heading to BC in the morning. I am heading back down the Icefields Highway stopping and hiking along the way.

Photos here or in the slide show below.

Plain of Six Glaciers

From Plain of the Six Glaciers

On the way up to Jasper I did an awesome hike called Plain of Six Glaciers. As you would have guessed you see six glaciers. I didn't count them but there were many. I linked this hike with a hike to Lake Agnes. There were two tea houses on the way but they were so busy that I didn't get anything at them but they looked fun.

It was a long drive to Jasper - not in distance but in time. However, the glacier views along the way were awesome. I can't wait to check some of that out on my way back. I did see mountain goats on the way to Jasper as well. In Jasper I saw an elk right by my hostel.



Hikes from Castle Mt in Banff Canada

I have to start this blog day out with a rant. I know that Johnston Canyon is a busy place and lots of people are enjoying hiking in the area. However, a few things really spoil it for the rest of us

1- Hiking while listening to music with your friends is not fun for the rest of us trying to hear the wildlife.

2- Puffing on a cigarette while walking on the trail is unpleasant for those of us wishing to enjoy the forest smells.

3- Acting as if the trail is there for you and you alone is inconsiderate.

Now about day 1 hiking in the Castle Mountain region --

I met up with Bev and Steve in their hotel yesterday. They enjoyed greyhounds on their balcony and then we went out for a nice meal. We arranged to meet at my hostel in the AM to hike. We went up to Stanley Glacier and hike it. It is 8.4 km roundtrip with an elevation gain of 395m. It was pretty with snow covered mountains around us.

From Hikes from Castle Mt


We saw a marmot on the way which was nice. I took a tumble off the trail and have a big bruise to prove it. All and all it was very nice. Afterwards we went to Johnstone Canyon where we viewed the Upper and Lower Falls. Bev and Steve headed back to their Banff Lodge and I went up to the Ink Pots. They were nice and I talked to a few Canadian teachers up there.

Heading back to the hostel I saw two black bear cubs on the side of the road. I was in my car and they were pretty close. Woo Hoo is all I can say

Many Glacier Hikes

Iceberg Lake
From Many Glacier Hikes

I gave a girl named Kerrianne a ride to Many Glacier. She decided to hike Iceberg Lake in the Ranger Led hike. I wasn't ready as I was fussing around with my blisters. However, I caught up to the group and passed it on the way up. It was a stunning hike with lots of mountains and wildflowers.
From Many Glacier Hikes


From Many Glacier Hikes


We caught a glimpse of a bear on the way out but he was soon hidden by trees and out of view. Iceberg lake was really pretty. There were a herd of goats on the mountainside by the lake. I used my scope to check them out. A couple of crazy people decided to go for a swim. You would hear them scream as they hit the water. Yes there were icebergs floating in the water.

From Many Glacier Hikes



From here Kerrianne, myself and another girl named Kate decided to hike up to Ptarmigan Lake. On the way we saw a dog like figure in the snow up the mountainside. It was a coyote or wolf. I couldn't get my scope out quickly enough to check it out. It was a steep uphill climb. The people in front of us and behind us saw a moose but it seemed to hide from us.

Not to say that I am a scammer but I got tired of paying $20 to camp so I put all my gear in my backpack and hiked into the campground. Hikers w/o cars pay only $5. It turns out that other hikers have been driving in and dropping off their stuff so I was almost legit.

Grinnell Glacier
Although I had thought to go up the Swiftcurrent Pass it was cloudy in the morning and I was worried that I would have poor views. After speaking to the ranger I decided to hike to Grinnell Lake, Hidden Falls, Grinnell Glacier (as far as the trail was open) and if I have more energy go to Redrock Falls.

It as a pretty, pretty hike but I feel like I say that everytime. I walked along Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes. Right as I started hiking along Josephine Lake I came across a moose and her calf right on the trail. Worried that I would be charged I bushwacked as far as i could through the dense woods. This seemed to work as the moose kept eating and didn't charge me. Grinnell Lake at ground level was pretty but as I ascended on the Grinnell Glacier trail the brilliant color of the lake became apparent. It was so blue.

From Many Glacier Hikes


Unfortunately, the Grinnell Glacier trail stopped short of the Grinnell Glacier but where it stopped afforded a view of the Salmon Glacier. I sat on a nice rock up there. I took off my shoes and inspected my blisters. Just then the word went out that there was a family of bears on the hillside. Sure enough a mother grizzly and her two cubs were digging in a glacier lily patch. They then proceeded to frolic across the hillside and slide down a snow bank. You could see them with your naked eye but it was better with the scope. It was a great lunch show. Later I headed down the trail. After a break I headed out to Redrock Falls. It was pretty but not as impressive as the other falls that I have seen.

Pitamaken Pass

From Pitamakan Pass


Amy was leading a hike to Oldman lake and I decided to go up again and see what changed in a week. Funnily enough although Steve wasn't there this week, another Steve showed up to hike. We went at a stiff pace but another hiker named Cyrus caught up with us. Luckily he did because I had dropped my bear spray and he found it and returned it to me. Since bear spray cost $44 I was very happy about that.

After we hiked up to Oldman lake in record time we decided to attempt Pitamakan Pass and maybe do the Pitamakan/ Dawson Loop. There was still alot of snow on the trail in certain places and I took a slide down one place. The view from the top was awesome. We could see lots of gorgeous lakes.
From Pitamakan Pass


From Pitamakan Pass



We could also see the trail going on and it had alot of snow on it. If you slipped up there, you would go a long way down the steep scree slope. It didn't look too good to me and we decided to head back the way we came. Steve took a bit of a slide on the way down but generally it was okay.

I got a blister and it popped on the way back providing a painful last mile or so. It was a long day 17 miles or so. The whole loop Pitamakan and Dawson would only have been a mile or so more. I can't wait to try it after the snow finally melts

Sunday, June 28, 2009

A Very Friendly Moose

I have been hiking everyday and loving it.  However, the best hike I have done so far has to be Cracker Lake in the Many Glacier region of Glacier National Park.  Just to be fair I will mention the other hikes I have done - Cobalt Lake (Two Medicine area), Swiftcurrent Nature Hike (Many Glacier area) and Virginia/Mary/ Baring Falls in the Mary Lake area.  They all had highlights and were all pretty.

Cracker Lake starts out a bit poorly as it is on a horse trail and you are walking on a churned up trail with horse manure.  However, after 1.7 miles there are no more horses.  It climbs steadily and then turns a bit roly/ poly with up and down bits.  You see some pretty waterfalls and lots of wildflowers but the jewel is Cracker Lake itself which is a brilliant turquoise color.  As I approached the end of the trail I saw several fluffy marmots.  I was busy chasing them to get there photo when I noticed a moose down by the lake.  
From Cracker Lake

I watched it as it got ever closer to me.  Then it kind of trotted in my direction in what I would describe as a curious manner.  However, after going to a number of ranger talks it has been drilled into my head that moose are dangerous and can charge you and harm you which their hooves so I looked for a bit of cover.  There was  not much - a tangle of small trees and some rocks.  I jumped into the trees.  After awhile I came out and as soon as the moose saw me it headed my way again.  This time I hid behind a rock.  The moose kind of moved into the trees and looked around.  I watched the marmots on the rocks and the goat on the hillside.  After awhile I came out and didn't see the moose anywhere.  I took some pictures of the lake and the area around it and then went over to the big rocks to look down on the trail that I walked in on.  I saw the moose swimming across the lake.  Figuring I was safe I headed down the trail.  Interestingly the moose headed down on the other side of the creek flowing from the river.  I watched it for a long time.  After I finished walking down the trail, I went to the ranger office and explained what happened.  The ranger said that the moose likely was attracted to either the salt on my skin or maybe my sunscreen.  He also said that you know when a moose is charging you as it acts very aggressive.  Anyway it was a very interesting encounter.   Just after that I had lunch with a deer that wasn't at all scared by me.  

Cracker Lake Photos

Cobalt Lake and Lake Mary Area Photos

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Scenic Point and Upper Medicine Lake Hikes

Scenic Point
6.2 miles - 2350 ft elevation gain
This was a steady uphill hike on the way out.  It went by a small waterfall and wound through the trees for a short time.  However, most of the hike was exposed and I hoped I would see bears, goats or sheep on the hillside.  Unfortunately I did not but it was a beautiful hike with incredible views of Lower Medicine Lake.  As I neared the top the wind increased and it was "blowing a gale".  I was nearly knocked over in certain spots along the ridge.  I had to walk over an area of snow that dropped steeply off to the left.  I hugged the rock wall and hoped for the best.  Scenic Point itself had views to the east and the plains.  The wind was so strong that I couldn't quite make it up to the ridge facing west.

Photos here or slide show below.


Upper Medicine Lake
11.5 miles -- 400 ft elevation gain
I set out to walk around the lake and meet the ranger led walk on the other side.  I figure that walking with a group is safer in terms of the bears.  I beat them to the boat landing and enjoyed listening to the ranger speak about her experiences as a bear control ranger.  However, there were around 20 people in the group and I soon broke off and walked on my own.  I saw a huge bear print (shown below) and walked very carefully calling out often.
The views from the lake were impressive and the wildflowers along the way were incredible.  I also visited the Twin Falls which were quite nice little waterfalls.  On the way back I lost my bear bell as I climbed over an avalanche that covered a section of trail.

Full size photos here or slide show below.


Monday, June 22, 2009

Old Man Lake Hike

From Old Man Lake HIke
Today I hiked with Ranger Amy again up to Old Man Lake. There were only three of us in the group. It was a beautiful hike with lots of wildflowers. Today there wasn't fresh bear scat on the trail but we were vigilant anyway. However, the only wildlife we saw were hares, birds, squirrels and chipmunks. I saw a brilliantly colored (orange under the wings) bird that I later learned was called a flicker. We also saw nests or colonies of small caterpillar. They were pretty interesting. We crossed numerous streams - some with bridges and others without. There were a number of waterfalls along the way. The last mile or so was in the snow which was not easy walking. There was some post holing (when your foot sinks deeply into the snow) and slipping and sliding. I wore my YakTrax but they weren't much help in the deeper snow. On a side note I loaned them to a guy yesterday. He broke them. That is a bummer. I think they will still kind of work but they are definitely damaged. Since they were worn only two times I am thinking of returning them to REI. The lake was still partially frozen and the area was very beautiful so I didn't dwell much on my broken YakTrax.

See the full size photos here or view the slide show below


Sunday, June 21, 2009

Glacier National Park

It was a long drive to Glacier and rainy most of the way. I stayed in a hotel in Butte on the way up. I picked up a new pair of hiking boots in the Missoula REI. Both of my Keens have developed deterioration in the heel causing pain and bleeding. You gotta love REI who take back all merchandise. I was able to get a more expensive pair of boots for the two pairs but I am not happy about hiking in boots that aren't broken in.

I got a call from my sister as I was about to enter the park. A school had called about a position. This is very annoying because I contacted HR and they put a note in my file to contact me by cell phone. There is only spotty cell service in the National Park but I did call the school three times. They didn't bother to call back. No worries.

From Glacier National Park I


I tried to break in my boots on a short walk around the lake. The next morning I hiked up to Apgar Lookout. I had a great view and met another solo hiker (Mark) who wanted to hike later in the day so we agreed to meet at Avalanche Lake at 2:00. However, by 2:00 is was quite rainy. I didn't wait and left without him. Not very nice I suppose. It was a good hike but would be much better on a clear sunny day. I drove up the rest of the Going to the Sun Road after the hike (mostly to use the car heater to dry myself off). When I got back into cell reception I realised Mark had called a couple of times.

The next morning I decided to take my wet tent to East Glacier and try out Brownies youth hostel there. For one it would be dry. For another it costs only $13 vs $20 for a campsite. Also it has showers, internet, cell service and laundry which the campgrounds don't. I texted Mark and told him I would be hiking at Two Medicine at noon and apologized for not waiting for him yesterday. The weather was great. I stopped by Running Eagle falls on the way in. When I got to the hike meeting place Mark was there and he was understanding about the day before. We hiked with a Park naturalist and a group of others. There were some awesome waterfalls (Rockwell and Aster). Mark and I hiked up to Aster view point as well. It had great views. A really good day!

Check out full size photos here or see the slideshow below




Monday, June 15, 2009

Yellowstone Trip

After a very fun visit with the fine Fine family that included pizza, wii, hammie and playing outside, we headed up to Yellowstone. We set up camp and then headed over to the Junior Ranger program. It was about identifying animal sounds. That was Brody's first step to becoming a Junior Ranger. Next we headed to Old Faithful. We had a bit of time before the next eruption so we checked out the other attractions. We lucked


It was a long trip but we managed to set up camp, and see Old Faithful anyway. Brody was definitely more interested in the bison along the trail. We also saw both Plume and Beehive geysers go off. At 9:30 we went to the evening program about the animals of Madison. I asked the ranger if we could toast marshmallows in the fire and he said yes. However, he had a hard time making the fire so I ended up making it for him. Then I roasted the marshmallows. At which point Brody decided he he liked them better raw. After the presentation we walked back and poor Brody was both frozen and scared. He was worried about bears and wolves after learning more about them.

From Yellowstone


The next morning we had a talk about animals and why we don't need to fear them as long as we follow the animal rules. We did the Northern Loop and went out the road to the Lamar valley. We saw heaps of animals - bison, elk, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, goats. It was fantastic. Brody must have been a little sleepy still. He feel asleep in the car. It as too bad as we went by a bear and he didn't get to see it. I was disappointed with the Mammoth Hot Springs area. There was much less water in the terraces and they were not as interesting as when I went many years ago. However, there were lots of elk hanging around and Brody loved that. We stopped at Norris Geyser Basin on the way back to camp. Brody settled in for some PSP in the tent and I went for a walk. I encountered a few bison on the same trail and got out of their way. When I got back to camp there were several bison hanging around the campground. I went to get Brody but he had already heard and had gone to see them. I built him a campfire and cooked up some delicious canned spagetti and meatballs for his dinner. As Brody sat by the fire about 15 buffalo walked through our section of the campground. One right through our camp. A mother, father and calf hung out at the next campsite. We kept still and watched them trying not to disturb them. It was certainly better than watching TV while eating dinner. Eventually they moved on without incident.

From Yellowstone


The next morning we did the lower circle of the Park. Brody really enjoyed the waterfalls. He said they were the first ones he had seen. We also visited the mud volcano area. Many of the geothermal features had dragon names and he like that but I think maybe he expected them to look like a dragon. We also visited the West Thumb Geyser area which is right on Lake Yellowstone. It was pretty interesting. Brody finished up his Junior Ranger booklet and was awarded a Junior Ranger patch. We bought him a Junior Ranger vest with lots of pockets for him to wear as well. We visted Old Faithful again. When it went off it went much higher than last time and Brody was very impressed. We took a shower at the Old Faithful Inn (our first in Yellowstone). Then we bought our last souviners and ate dinner at a diner in the Old Faithful area.

The next morning it started pouring rain at 4am. Luckily Brody slept through it but I couldn't sleep worrying about packing up in the rain. When it let up, I packed up the wet gear and Brody and hit the road. Brody slept for about three more hours as I drove. I caught a few buffalo and elk on the way out. With the exception of a small but non-stinging wasp encounter in car, the trip went well.

We arrived in Park City in the early afternoon. As we walked up to the Fine's door, we heard young Josh yelling Brody, Brody, Brody. It was a great welcome. Brody played with the Fine kids for a few hours and ate some mac and cheese and then we headed down to the airport. All went well there until I was pulled up by security for bringing my swiss army knife. I had forgotten about it because I wasn't flying. Luckily we had enough time to return to the car and leave it there. After a bit for frozen yogurt I took Brody to the gate and he got on the plane.

It was a great trip and I hope Brody will have good memories of it for a long, long time.

More photos of the trip can be seen here or in the slideshow below.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Bryce Canyon with Brody

Brody slept like a log and finally I had to wake him to leave for Bryce. It wasn't a long drive but there is a time change and we wanted to do quite a bit there. We arrived at 11:00 and checked in. Then went in the Park. We visited the Visitor Center. Highlights there include a stuffed porcupine and a historic rifle. Following that we drove up to Natural Bridge which is a large stone formation shaped like a bridge.

Afterwards we drove back to Sunrise Point where I whipped up a bit of mac and cheese on the camp stove. It started to rain during this but only drops so we persevered on with lunch. After that we hiked the Queens Garden/ Navajo Loop trail. It is supposed to be one of the top 3 mile hikes in the world or so someone said on the trail. There were lots of amazing hoodoos. Brody enjoyed climbing around on the rocks. We climbed out in a narrow canyon. It was kind of steep and, although he complained of hurting legs, Brody did pretty well. I treated him to a Moon pie at the top. From there we returned to Rubys and moved into our tipi.

From Bryce Canyon with Brody


Next it was off for a swim. After debating whether to swim in the indoor or outdoor pool, Brody decided on the indoor one. Good thing, I think, as it was 50 degrees. He had a great swim. He was disappointed that I didn't go in but seemed to like it when I through him a penny and he could dive for it.

After that he showered and shopped. He found a cowboys and Indians plastic figurine set to buy. He is a born shopper that one.

Tonight we are off to see a presentation on night creatures in the Park if he makes it to 8:30.