Monday, March 2, 2009

Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim

I was up by 5:30 and on the Bright Angel trail by 6am. It was pretty dark. I came across some trail signs but wasn't able to read them. I wished I had the iPhone flashlight app but I had to make due with turning up the brightness to read the signs. I felt totally disoriented but when I got to the bridge I knew I was in the right place. This bridge has a metal grate across the bottom and I can see why it mules might get spooked. It was kind of scary going over it. I took it easy due to my legs still being sore and it being dark but made really good time to the half way point - Indian Gardens. It was a beautful walk along Bright Angel creek. There were many trees along the creek. I really want to return when the leaves turn because it would transform this from a pretty walk to a spectacular walk.

I began the ascent from Indian Gardens to the Rim. This last section hold the most elevation gain - around 3,000 ft in five miles. I was uncertain how I would go but I continued to make really good time. My muscles were not bothering me on the uphill at all except for the minor dips in the trail.

I saw two large birds with white markings that I think were condors soaring overhead. One seemed to be checking me out. It was a great show.

Later I came across a group with a dog. It seems that everyone had been telling them that it is against the rules to have a dog on the trail and that was annoying them because they were quite rude to the guys in front of me and to me when I told them that I had passed two rangers below. As I left them I worried about how mules react to dogs. When I came across my first mule train, I asked the wrangler/ guide and sure enough mules are afraid of dogs so I let him know about the dog on the trail. I passed two more mule trains and let them know as well.

Several people commented on my shorts but I was generally warm walking uphill with my pack. I did have to put a fleece on for the last section. The last section was really icy. I saw more than one person slip and hit the ground hard. I was so happy to have brought my YakTrax. I had great traction between them and the hiking pole. I tried to warn people at the top to go back and buy the instep crampons that they sell at the Bright Angel lodge for only $10 but they went ahead. I guess they weren't worried about either slipping and hurting themselves or going over the edge.

I made it out of the canyon in less than 5 1/2 hours and felt great. I think I made such good time because I took fewer photos on the way out. The ones I did take are here and in the slide show below. This was an amazing experience.

I also can certainly see why people get in trouble here. Despite it being only February it was quite hot on the S. Kaibab Trail, the Clear Creek Trail and parts of the N. Kaibab Trail. I wouldn't want to be on those trails in the summer heat.

I hope to return in the autumn when the leaves are changing and walk from the North Rim to the South Rim staying the night at Phantom Ranch again.

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