Annapurna Circuit Part 3 - Going over the pass

April 15 Muktinath

From AC Part 3

Our initial plan was to leave at 5am so the day started very, very early at 4am. I got my stuff together and waited for Lyb and Graeme in the dining area. Overnight a young woman became very ill (dysentery). Her mother was appalled by the price of international calls ($5 per minute). I chatted with them briefly. I considered giving them antibiotics for the illness but I knew that I would see the doctors as they descended from the Pass (they had stopped in the afternoon before on their way to High Camp). The moon over the mountains was beautiful. At 5:00am it was still quite dark. Our departure was delayed as Lyb and Graeme didn't have flashlights or headlamps. We were on the way by 5:30. I think we were the last ones to leave - very unusual for me.

I was glad to have the porter to carry my bag but the hike up was easier than it was the day before during our acclimatization hike. Lyb and Graeme didn't have a porter so I arrived at High Camp before them. There was a really sick guy there. I think that he had HAPE there was stuff streaming out of his nose. Apparently he had seen the doctors and his guide was encouraging him to go down immediately. The poor guy felt that he couldn't walk. I suggested a horse as I had seen people going over the Pass on them. The guide misinterpreted and thought that I meant for the sick guy to go over the Pass but I meant go down on the horse.

On the way up from here we bumped into the doctors. I told them about the dysentery case at Phedi. I asked if they had any medicine but they didn't so I gave them some of my antibotics. I knew that I could get more in the next couple of days.

After we left High Camp the trail went through patches of steep snow. More than once my porter steadied me as I wobbled along. I tried to keep Lyb and Graeme in sight. One slip by any of us could have been disasterous. It was easy to see how people just disappeared. My back began to ache a bit which was crazy since I wan't wearing a pack. Our next stop was a tea house on the way up. We reached it almost at the same time. I went out back to use the toilet and almost gagged. The toilet was a room full of shit and toilet paper - not even a hole in the floor. Meanwhile there was a sign advertising Yak riding. I wanted to get a photo of the yak maybe even with me on top of it so I asked about it. The teahouse people just laughed and said that Golly (my porter) was my yak. The Nepali people have a good sense of humor and I laughed along with them. I hadn't eaten much so I ate a granola bar and hoped that the diarrhea I had been experiencing wouldn't act up.

We walked on to the Pass from here. It was so beautiful. However, that ache in my back became a horrendous pain. I now realised what it was - menstrual cramps. By the time we got to the Pass I was almost doubled over in pain. I dug out of my pack some ibuprofen and hoped that it would be fast acting. I ate some snickers bar with it. Lyb and Graeme were soon at the top and we took photos at the top. It was Graeme's birthday. What an awesome thing to do on your birthday !!!!

From AC Part 3

Now after about 1000m of uphill we had 1500m of steep downhill. We walked downhill for an hour or so more taking in awesome scenery including some cool glaciers when the diarrhea struck. I have to say that I was feeling pretty crappy on the way down (although Lyb's corn chips helped) and I was so happy when we made it to a tea house to stop and eat. I ate only boiled potato and some sprite to ease my diarrhea issues.

An hour or so later we were in Muktinath. We had been on the trail for 11 hours. We saw Bridgette and Mike from NZ and found out that Mike had gotten really sick at High Camp) and had to take a horse over the pass. Bridgette had gone over by herself.

I was ecstatic to find a hot shower at my hotel. Then I caught up with Lyb and Graeme and had a beer. Woo Hoo! A long hard day but I am so glad I did it.